Sureño’s New Weekend Brunch is Worthy of Your Weekend
Beijing’s spring is exciting, not only because it’s short, but also because this is when the food and beverage industry come out of their winter hibernation. Sureño, the Mediterranean restaurant in the sunken garden of The Opposite House, is no different, having just launched their all-new weekend brunch put together using the Mediterranean influences of fresh and seasonal ingredients under the lead of Chef Talib Hudda, previously of The Georg.
The brunch kicks off with a bread basket, which has four varities – two whole grain breads, a small croissant, and a chocolate pastry, paired with homemade raspberry jam and butter. Meanwhile, you can head to the buffet table inside for a refreshing starter. Unlike the stereotypical hotel buffet, Sureño offers a vast series of appetizers. Among the best of those starters are: cheese and cold cuts, salmon, oysters, different salads (such as duck leg and lentil salad; spinach and strawberry; chickpearl, pearl barley, and lentil), grilled vegetables, yogurt, and our favorite; the cold steamed cod with cauliflower and almonds. We loved it not only for its artisanal look, but also for the tenderness of the cod, the seasoning, and the crisp slices of almonds.
As for the main, you can pick one from the list; egg-lovers’ eggs Benedict, scrambled egg (with a choice of soffritto – onion, pepper, celery, or salmon with spinach), country style omelette (mushroom or white cheddar); or shakshuka, chicken leg (with potato rösti and barigoule purée), beef cheek, zarzuela (a traditional Spanish stew of cuttlefish, squid, sea bass, green peas, and broccoli), duck cavatelli, and smoked carrot agnolotti.
The shakshuka (pictured above), was served in a shiny pot, garnished with cilantro, and also had two slices of whole grain bread. The acidic tomatoes shone through the feta cheese, onion, and pearl barley, without stealing the thunder of the poached egg on top or the heat of the spices. The surprising part was that the chef popped the pearl barley first, which gave the dish a little more texture.
Our favorite was the beef cheek, which was served with buttery potato purée, charred leek, and cumin butter. The juicy beef cheek melted in my mouth thanks to its tenderness. Even though it was quite lean, the cheek glittered as a result of the sauce, with some bites of leek adding to the dish's artistic side.
You can also choose one of five desserts to cleanse the palate, including chocolate and raspberry tart, million layer tiramisu crêpe cake, nectarine tatin, roasted cocoa with vanilla ice cream, and a fruit plate. The nectarine tatin was tasty. Its caramelized sugar and thick sliced nectarine on top added sweet and fruity dimensions to this already pleasurable, buttery, rich tart. We only wish we could've swapped the whipped cream with ice cream.
The alluring ambiance only added to the meal: relaxing music, a nice breeze, and a gastronomic experience in an al fresco dining area, still hidden from the hustle and bustle of the Sanlitun crowds. “If you are a fan of the outdoors then enjoy your brunch in the beautiful sunken garden, surrounded by lush bamboo greenery, or stay indoors and watch the chefs live in action as they prepare your food,” says Mark Passmore, General Manager of The Opposite House.
The brunch is available on weekends, at 11am-3pm, costing RMB 348 net. A selection of free-flow wines is RMB 150 (including Paxton The Guesser red, Pierre Chainier 1749 rose, and Royal Tokaji late harvest), or free-flow champagne and wine is an additional RMB 200 (Duval Leroy brut). Make a reservation by emailing info@surenorestaurant.com or calling 6410 5240.
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Photos: Tracy Wang, Sureño