Balance Between Low Key and High Society: TRB's "Rough and Refined" Guest Chef Menu Available Until Sep 10

Go on, admit it – even the most sophisticated among us often have preconceived notions about fine dining. We might be put off by the thought of white linen and a stuffy atmosphere. The concept of bubbly, offbeat molecular gastronomy may have lost its novelty. And even if all that still holds appeal, a more down-to-earth alternative still might hold a bigger draw. Thankfully, Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) is hosting a limited-time menu that strikes a unique balance between low key and high society.

Or, as they call it: Rough and Refined, a menu made by Belgian guest chef Matthias Speybrouk. Available from now until September 10, the visiting chef's menu will showcase a style he has become known for at his Va et Vient restaurant in the scenic Flemish town of Kortrijk. A statement from TRB about the ground that Speybrouk at Va et Vient says "guests are pampered with a fixed menu that showcases the best in-season products from local growers; the menu is not a 'fancy' or 'extensive' one, yet it is within its simplicity and straightforwardness that the diners discover Chef Matthias’s ability to surprise and to delight the palates."

For TRB, he has crafted a menu that starts with a fluffy yet juicy cod fillet immersed in lemon leaf juice with a side of yellow zucchini. It's followed by baby squid in a richly earthy Liefmans Goudenband's Belgian beer sauce and a side of lucious creme potatoes. A vegetarian course comes after that, made with a special celeriac (which will remind you of both turnip and celery) coated in succulent ricotta cheese and bittersweet Taragon herbs. A chicken breast with sweet onions and zesty Gremolata herbs serves as the meal's climax, while a chocolate creme flecked with hazelnut and kalamansi citrus flavors brings a sweet finish to the proceedings.

This dinner will set you back RMB 888, or you can opt for a lunch rendition (that doesn't include the cod) for RMB 588. An added bonus that makes the meal worthwhile: the wine pairings with each dish (a feature that has become well reputed because of TRB's tendency to pour those glassfuls generously). A year-old Italian Kris Pinot Grigio comes with the serving of cod, for instance, making for a flowery, citrusy drink that aptly teams with the fish. A two-year-old New Zealand Tahuna Sauvignon Blanc is paired with the baby squid – a wine that sounds very tempting given one reviewer describing it as a "great aperitif or seafood wine" thanks to its "ripe tropical and gooseberry fruit flavors with a zingy finish and impeccable balance." A range of French and Spanish wines will be paired with the remaining dishes.

It all amounts to an indulgent yet light meal that caps off summer aptly just as cooler weather gradually rolls in. And it will be equally memorable for TRB and Speybrouk's efforts to elevate rustic, traditional fare to elegant new heights, while also making fine dining more accessible and pure, without all the ostentatious flourishes that bog lesser menus down.

Guest chef Matthias Speybrouk's Rough and Refined menu will be available at TRB until Sep 10.

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Email: kylemullin@thebeijinger.com
Twitter: @MulKyle

Photos: Courtesy of TRB, 90plus.com