Alio Olio No More: Chaoyang Park Italian Stalwart Switches Its Name to La Rucola, Remains Delicious

What's the recipe for success when running a restaurant in as volatile and competitive a town as Beijing? Whatever it is, Alio Olio seemed to certainly have it down pat for much of its decade-plus run, somehow staying open at Chaoyang Park's west gate despite a slew of other Italian restaurants and pizzerias opening up all over the city and dominating much of the local dining dialogue in the ensuing years.

And while so many other restaurants have since shut down due to lack of business, rent deals gone awry, or the onslaught of redevelopments throughout the year, this Italian joint remained operative, albeit quietly. Despite all that consistency, it does make sense to have some switchups after so much time has passed. To that end, the restaurant changed its name to La Rucola this past summer and tweaked and updated some of its other aspects.

Don't worry though, the same sort of Napoli, woodfire pizzas that you know and love are still on offer, along with several tempting pasta options and other Italian staples. Add to that some new dishes to its already impressive array of authentic (not to mention affordable) Italian fare, some spruced-up decor (skewing more toward white linen fine dining-style), and you've got a mouthwateringly winning combination.

Our bowlful of tagliatelle with porcini (RMB 68) was rich and savory, boasting a white wine sauce and mushrooms from Yunnan that were subtly bitter and went surprisingly well with the silky, stringy noodles. But that menu item paled in comparison to the parma ham pizza (RMB 88). Its combination of mozzarella and parmesan cheeses made it ever so gooey, while its crust was light and fluffy. 

Another surprising feature of the pizza section – and one that will compel us to return to La Rucola – is the number of seafood pizzas on offer. Among them are a calamari, capers, mozzarella and parmesan pie, along with a smoked salmon, rucola and capers option, and a scallop and porcini entry, as well as squid ink-topped pies, among others. Then there's also, of course, the more conventional types you've come to expect at an Italian joint, with ingredients like salami, anchovies, and artichoke (most are priced in the RMB 68-80 range, with a few cheaper and pricier varieties on either end).

There are also dozens and dozens of other items available, be they antipasti, carpaccio, pasta, and risottos. By adding a few new flourishes in all the right spots, without abandoning what made it great in the first place, La Rucola looks poised to maintain its already impressive staying power.

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Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
Twitter: @MulKyle

Photos: Kyle Mullin