TheFive Brings Hearty and Modern Henan Cuisine and an Inviting Vibe to WF Central

Following the official opening of WF Central in May, the shiny mall has gradually built its reputation as a haven for foodies. Now joining the likes of established F&B destinations Tiago, The Rug Café, Cheesecake Factory, Tribe and Le Grenier à Pain, it's time for Henan restaurant TheFive to prove its worth as somewhere for shoppers to spend a little more cash than they would at street level.

TheFive isn’t co-founders Gao Ran and Yu Yang’s first foray into Beijing's F&B business; that was their Mian He Tang, a clean-cut noodle joint in China View. With the closure of Mian He Tang two and a half years after its 2015 debut, the team now sets their sights on this 65-seat half-open casual venue focusing on (mostly) Henan cuisine with a modern flair. Why TheFive? A nod to the five basic flavors: sweet, sour, bitter, salty, and umami.

The meal began with a splash of color courtesy of the steamed vegetable cake (RMB 38). It's essentially a tower of orange, white, and green thanks to its shredded potato, carrot, and crown daisy (茼蒿 tónghāo), a humble combination that projects TheFive's grounded intentions. The vegetables are shredded, tossed in flour, and then steamed so as to make them fluffy and moist upon serving.

The xiaolongbao (RMB 22 for four) here have outer skins that are thin enough to almost see through. They also come oozing with a delicious broth that is steaming hot and savory without being too greasy. Of course, ensuring you get every last drop will require some deft chopstick skills but you'll curse yourself for losing any of the juice.

Lamb huimian (烩面, RMB 48), or lamb rock broth noodles, was the star of the meal, featuring thick-cut noodles, sweet potato glass noodles, quail eggs, tofu, mu’er, bok choy, and a tender and succulent rib of lamb. All that was served in a delicious milky broth that is simmered with lamb bones, pork ribs, and 20 varieties of herbs for over four hours. This heartwarming staple is ubiquitous in Henan, and is paired with chopped cilantro, chili sauce, and preserved garlic to help the subtler flavors of the soup pop.   

The menu always takes a special focus on Henan-tyle street eats, such as stir-fried fish, braised lamb chops, scrambled eggs with sophora flower, assorted noodles, as well as a tangerine boneless chicken. A particularly chic re-imagining of Cao Cao, the notorious warlord and penultimate Chancellor of the Eastern Han dynasty who conquered the Central Plain, adorns the venue complete with glasses, canvas shoes, and checkered trousers. An excerpt from his famous poem Short Song Style (短歌行) is also printed throughout:

I lift my drink and sing a song, for who knows if one's life is short or long (对酒当歌，人生几何)
who can unravel these sorrows of mine, I know of only one man, the God of Wine (何以解忧，唯有杜康)

Speaking of drinks, we recommend the Maojian green tea from Xinyang, Henan (RMB 5 per person) or the creamed peach blossom clovershrub tea (RMB 26), for their delicate flavors and calming qualities. If it's something a little more rigorous you're after, grab a 150ml bottle of Dukang baijiu (杜康 dùkāng, RMB 68) as a salutation to Cao Cao.

Overall, TheFive's hip vibe, warm lighting, architectural elements of Henan, such as cyan tiles and cane baskets, and modern reproductions of Henan favorites make it an easy choice if you're looking for a more local meal than its nearby rivals can provide.

TheFive
Mon-Fri 11am-9.30pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-10pm. 401B, 4/F, WF Central, 269 Wangfujing Dajie, Dongcheng District (8620 2401)
伍中原食堂：北京市东城区王府井大街269号王府中环商场4层401B

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Email: tracywang@thebeijinger.com
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Photos: Tracy Wang, courtesy of TheFive