Serene: A Romantic Taste of Italy on Wudaoying

When it comes to ambiance, Serene stands strong in the very crowded field that is Beijing’s Italian dining scene. By no means the most upscale pasta spot in town, it strikes a more formal note straight away with its intimate lighting, minimalist decor, and snug floorspace across three levels. There's a wine bar on the ground floor, and a handful of white linen tables on the second level. The third floor, meanwhile, is a rooftop, which helps Serene live up to its name with an easy breezy inviting vibe, helped by the smartly placed foliage, opaque screens, and glowing lanterns that give it a amorous touch. 

Like the floor space, the menu has a more narrow focus than we’re used to, with a handful of pastas and entree options like steaks, along with appetizers such as beef or salmon tartare (RMB 90 and 65, respectively). So even though the atmosphere is semi-formal and there’s no black tie dress code, the eats sit at the fancier side of the spectrum. It’s also one of the very few Italian joints that we know of in Beijing that doesn’t also feature pizza on the menu.

Our very friendly waiter spoke little English but had no trouble understanding my broken Chinese, and I was surprised when he told me the restaurant was four years old. All that time, and I’d never heard of Serene, and could find no mention of it anywhere in the Beijinger’s archives or directory? My friends and I began to wonder if we were in for a hidden gem, or a warmed-over middler that failed to catch on like so many of its flashier Italian competitors. Regardless, we all agreed that it was nice to see a swankier Italian option in the hutongs. The neighborhood of course has long skewed informal, even before the business-bursting bricklaying that laid waste to so many popular Western restaurants in these alleyways last year. 

We opted for the mutton fettuccine (RMB 85, pictured at top) for something different than pasta accompanying beef, and thought this would be a more creative rendition. I couldn't really tell the difference in the end, but the plush noodles and succulent meat were satisfying in terms of texture, even if the red wine sauce and mutton flavors failed to pop as much as I’d hoped.

I also liked that there were a handful of decent by-the-glass wine options available, rather than the all-too-frequent single red and single white offerings at other Beijing spots. Priced between RMB 50-80 per glass, the wines weren’t remarkable but hailed from a variety of regions like France, Italy, and Chile, and included a few quality brands. 

So while it won’t be a contender for “Italian restaurant of the year,” Serene still holds its own thanks to its offbeat location, romantic ambiance, and its moderately upscale but nevertheless straightforwardly satisfying food.

Serene
Daily, 11am-midnight. 1 Jianchang Hutong, Andingmen Nei Dajie (6408 7054)
东城区安定门内大 街箭厂胡同1号

Photos courtesy of Serene