Metal Hands: This Humble Hutong Joint Serves Some of Beijing’s Best Desserts

You shouldn't always go looking for Beijing’s most mouthwatering slices of cake at a haughty Sanlitun bakery or on the dessert page of a pricey upscale restaurant menu. No, surprisingly enough, some the best examples of that beloved Western confection can be found at none other than a nookish little cafe in a serene, all but commerce-free hutong. Metal Hands, the artisan coffee shop that was long popular on Wudaoying Hutong, has an equally popular newer location at the otherwise desolate Jiaodaokou Bei'ertiao. And while its rustic chic decor and imported beans are all on point, the element that truly puts it over the top is its succulent sweets.

The aptly named mousse cake (RMB 45) comes in four layers, two chocolatey and one creamy vanilla in the center, topped off by a sesame flavored slab up top that makes for a strong, East-meets-West combination. Together those layers are firm and springy, fitting the unfussy title to a tee.

Better still, however, is the chocolate cake. Its generic name belies its elegance and complexity, from its exterior coating of grey sugary power to the rich, milk chocolatey mousse therein. Best of all: a core of bittersweet orange cream at its center, contributing to an impressive variety of taste and texture.

And like most artisan cafes in Beijing, Metal Hands by no means slacks off when it comes to high-end beans. Some of those offerings are pretty standard, like the Ethiopia Yirgacheffegi (RMB 45 for hand drip or RMB 50 for cold brew) or the Panama Janson Geisha Washed (RMB 68 for hand drip or RMB 73 for cold brew). More unique options, however, include the Costa Rica Cumbres Del Poas Zahiro, a rich and bitter coffee that will set you back RMB 50 for hand drip or RMB 55 for cold brew, even though we found it to be more satisfying than the pricier options on the menu. Among the classic coffees: laudably strong espressos (RMB 25 for hot or RMB 28 for iced), creamy lattes for RMB 30 hot or RMB 32 cold, and frothy cappuccinos and flat white for RMB 30 each.

No, there aren't quite as many imported options as on offer at Soloist, the pinnacle of Beijing's high-end coffee scene. This branch of Metal Hands is so snug you might have to wiggle onto one of the few counter seats available, or wait if you come with a group. But that's because it's usually quite busy, patrons being drawn in by its cozy old Beijing ambiance and decor, along with the strong and delicious coffee, and of course the intricate, sweet-tooth-tingling desserts.

Metal Hands
Daily 10.30am-9pm. 68 Jiaodaokou Beiertiao, Dongcheng District (155 1053 3895)
东城区交道口北二条68号

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Photos: Kyle Mullin