Spicy But Pricey: Modern Yunnan Restaurant Yumricee Opens in Topwin Center
Rice noodles, or mixian, are a ubiquitous street food in Yunnan, but like many things these days they're moving from the street to the mall; and when the food goes upmarket, the prices do too. New modern Yunnan restaurant Yumricee, in the basement of Topwin Center, is no exception to this rule.
It looks nothing like a street eat stall with its minimalist décor – grey walls, bubble-like lights floating in the air, abundant foliage … if it weren't for the customers sitting eating, we may have mistaken it for a design store.
The menu features five varieties of rice noodles, including perhaps the region's most famous offering, the "crossing the bridge" noodles, which cost an astonishing RMB 88 and are only available in the evening. The spicy rice noodles with tofu (RMB 38) were served promptly, though in a relatively small bowl compared to other Yunnan restaurants around town. Featuring soft tofu, crushed peanuts, minced pork, chili peppers, and cilantro, the serving deftly balanced the spicy, sweet, and savory notes. It was also plenty spicy for us, though they put an extra helping of the chili oil with minced pork on the side just in case you want to go to town. In the end, however, the diminutive portion left us wishing that there were extra dry rice noodles too.
The spicy rice noodle soup with beef (RMB 48) was certainly better on the portion front, and the broth was delicious. Sadly, we found that the rice noodles were overwhelmed by an excess of peppermint leaves.
As for the snacks, the fries (above) were a bit too dry from being overcooked, but saved by ample spicy seasoning. Health-conscious diners might prefer their chilled bamboo shoots served with ice cubes, which, we were told, are shipped in from Yunnan.
Yumricee is a far cry from the hustle of down-to-earth restaurants of Yunnan and as the word "modern" implies when it comes to eating out, it's expensive for the quality and size of the portions – albeit not expensive enough to have you fleeing at the first sight of the menu – with a bowl of Yunnan-style rice noodles setting you back RMB 38-48, and incomprehensibly, a single slice of rubing (goat's cheese) costing RMB 48. All in all, the dining experience was pleasant enough and sees Yumricee join the likes of "updated" and mall-friendly local delicacy restaurants like Sun Chase and Bei 27 Hao. Unfortunately, it's also prime example of how Beijing prices for simple dishes are becoming harder to swallow.
Yumricee
Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-9.30pm; Sat-Sun 11.30am-9.30pm. B1-7, Topwin Center, 1 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (186 1174 1193)
云饵：朝阳区南三里屯路1号楼通盈中心B1-7号
More stories by this author here.
Email: tracywang@thebeijinger.com
Twitter: @flyingfigure
Instagram: @flyingfigure
Photos: Tracy Wang
