Q&A With Cross Yu of E.P.I.C. Bar in Shanghai Ahead of Aug 28-29 Park Hyatt Beijing Guest Shifts

Today, Cross Yu is known for heading up E.P.I.C., a sizzling hot cocktail bar in Shanghai's fully stacked nightlife scene, where it's by no means easy for such a lounge to stand out. But before he made a name for himself by mixing up creative, quality drinks in that elegant setting, Yu had a far humbler start. No, not at a mixology school, and not even with an entry-level position at a posh lounge, but instead as a lowly waiter in a Vietnamese restaurant. He doesn't consider that early job to be mere dues-paying, however. Instead, he uses what he learned during those menial shifts in his drink recipes to this day. He tells us about all that and more, ahead of his Aug 28 and 29 guest shifts at China Bar in Beijing's Park Hyatt hotel.

Tell us about how you started in the cocktail and bar business.
I’ve been in this industry for 16 years, starting as a server in a Vietnamese restaurant. I have had plenty of unique and special experiences since then. After working at restaurants, I began a job at a hotel bar, and then some clubs. To me, working in clubs actually contributed to my career building. It taught me how to control the quality and delivery of orders during busy periods.

In 2005 I began working at the high-end restaurant Three, on the Bund in Shanghai. It was there that I first learned how to make cocktails. At the same time, I familiarized myself with flavors and spices, in both food and drinks. After that, I participated in many global contests, the most recent being Chivas Masters Competition 2014, where I won the China Champion. I launched my own bar, E.P.I.C., four years ago.

What can Beijing customers expect when they come to your guest shift at the Park Hyatt Beijing?
For this guest bartender shift at China Bar, Park Hyatt Beijing, I will bring in four cocktails: Monkey Blanc, 22+ Century Cocktail, Chivanez, and London Back Swizzle.

The drinks are not something you will usually find in Beijing. I would say they are actually quite classic. Classic twists as many of us in the industry might call them. It’s the trend for this year, globally. So I chose these four modern classics.

Please tell us a little bit about each drink.
First up: Monkey Blanc, which features Monkey 47 gin. This gin is full bodied, from Germany, with 47 botanicals. We add white Campari, which then turn the drink color to orange. It also vividly takes on a great fragrant mix of spices.

Then there’s the 22+ Century cocktail, which is also a classic drink. It has a gin base, which is quite popular these days, and then I add Lillet Blanc, with White Cacao, and shake with some citrus, lemon. Finally, I adorn it with basil to make it more appetizing and refreshing. It is definitely a drink for this season!

Finally, we have the London Back Swizzle, which is more of a punch. Its fruity taste comes from fresh pineapple, ginger, lime juice and Falernum, a rum-based liqueur from the Caribbean. I mix all that with fresh mint and cacao, Chivas 18, and crushed ice. Ladies will like it for its fruity and aromatic flavors.

An article in Saveur about Shanghai's cocktail scene quotes you as saying: "cocktails in China are progressing in the same way as food, with an emphasis not only on taste but also quality and freshness of ingredients, presentation, provenance, and texture." How do you think the cocktail scene in Shanghai compares to other cities like Beijing?
It is more of a regional variation – South and North. When I first visited Beijing in 2006, there was D lounge, Bubble Bar, Ala House, and so on. They are all very good with talented bartenders, like Kevin Song, and Sun Quan. We exchanged ideas often and participated in contests. If there’s a difference between these cities, I would say it’s different drinking habits and flavors the guests prefer.

What are some specific examples of how ingredients have progressed in China? And how does that progress help you do a better job at E.P.I.C.?
When I opened E.P.I.C. four years ago, my idea was to input all my cultivated experiences and network into this bar. E.P.I.C. is relaxing for many many customers, but we nevertheless maintain strict standards and quality. You can never lose that. Our team is creative, coming up with ideas like dipping perilla leaves in Gin and mixing with rosemary, creating our own homemade fermented syrup and so on. We let our imaginations go wild. And of course, we like to surprise our guests with something fancy, like using glowing ice in the drinks.

Tell us about some of the inspirations you draw on for drinks.
I prefer to match my drink with the food I am having, for example, perilla gin with sea salt, and Blackcurrant gin and lime. I used to make a drink, inspired by a candy I tasted, so I tried to restore the flavor. We categorized our cocktails into three segments ranking on how our guests like the alcohol level, and density.

To develop new cocktails, we will record notes when trying new dishes and restaurants, then organize brainstorming sessions. After that, it usually takes 1-2 weeks to purchase ingredients, then test and debug until you find the balance. Finally, you have to find a way to decorate and give it an amazing presentation.

Cross is a really interesting name. Is there a story behind it?
It’s truly an interesting name [laughs]. When I became a bartender, I did lots of crossover on drinks. So “Cross”, to me, is related to what I have been doing and what I like to do.

Cross Yu will be the guest bartender at China Bar in the Park Hyatt hotel in Beijing's CBD on Aug 28 and 29 at 8pm. For more information, click here.

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Photos: CNN Travel, Zimbio, courtesy of the Park Hyatt