I Think I'm Turning Japanese: Sumptuous Sets and Sake Worth Seeking Out at Koji

Sometimes it's a bittersweet feeling, to find a hidden gem of a restaurant. The devil on one shoulder whispers that we should keep the secret to ourselves; the angel on the other demands that we share it with you, our beloved readers. Righteousness, of course, always prevails. We don't often get out to Lido, but on this occasion it was well worth the trip because Koji might be the best thing to have happened to that sleepy east end neighborhood this year.

This new Japanese restaurant is run by the same couple behind Toya on Xiaoyun Lu. Co-owner Kazuyuki Tanioka, a trained chef and sake sommelier, was the youngest Japanese person ever to pass the Diplome de Senior Sommelier in 2003. His dedication and passion for sake explains why the drink menu is so well curated, with top-notch sakes (RMB 900-6,000) that are very hard to find in China, including Jikon’s Junmai Ginjyo Yumadanishiki Nama, Ohmine’s Junmai, and Fukurokuju’s Ippakusuisei Sunday Back Nine. Of the former, Tanioka explains that "'jikon' means 'live the moment,'” adding, “There are three kinds of sake: the cheap sake to get you drunk, the sake that pairs with food to complement each other, and the sake that can be enjoyed without food.”

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Named after the renowned Japanese porcelain master Koji Inoue, some of Inoue's masterpieces are on display, creating a fitting backdrop for the six set menus on offer (RMB 350-1,800). As we know, the Japanese set menu, or kaiseki, should be like an elaborate melody, with both high and low notes.

The set we tasted was impeccable: the assorted appetizer platter included steamed pumpkin, scallop paired with apricot, and tamagoyaki (Japanese rolled omelet) and was smooth with a hint of sweetness. The sashimi platter, on the other hand, was simple, fresh, and delicious.

We also loved the grilled fish and wagyu beef. Both were paired with algae-infused sea salt and a handmade grapefruit and pepper sauce which brought intense hot and zesty flavors to the dish. In deference to omotenashi, the Japanese tradition of service, they also provide a small grill with charcoal so that you can grill the vegetables to your personal taste. The kamameshi (mixed rice dish, pictured below), served in a pot, was topped with salmon roe, fish, crunchy edamame, and seasoned with sake, mirin, and handmade soy sauce; this soul food for the ages.

The attention to detail also extends to the tableware, all designed and made in Japan, and brought to Beijing by the owners. From the elegant and airy dining area to the dishes that showcase the natural flavors of the quality ingredients, Koji hits every mark, demonstrating that good food (and sake) deserves to be well presented.

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We called Koji a hidden gem, because you're unlikely to come across it accidentally – it's on the third floor of Nuo Hotel, though it's not owned by Nuo. However, it's well worth seeking out. We were planning our next visit before we'd even finished our meal, although quality of this kind doesn't come cheap, and we'll have to start saving up our pennies. But if you're looking to impress that special someone, or just to sample Japanese fine dining at its best, then Koji will not disappoint.

Koji
Daily 12-2pm, 5.30-10pm. 3/F, Nuo Hotel, 2A Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District (8470 0162)
公之日本料理：北京市朝阳区将台路甲2号北京诺金酒店3层

In the mood for a fancy meal? Try Immaculate Kaiseki for Special Occasions at Wangfujing's Sushi Zen

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Email: tracywang@thebeijinger.com
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Photos: Tracy Wang, Koji