Back for More: Superb Flavors and a Terrace Put Bombay Spice Among Beijing's Best Indian

Every now and again we're surprised to stumble across a restaurant that has been lying in plain view this entire time. For me, Bombay Spice Indian Restaurant, is just that place. Tucked away in a compound across from the US Embassy in Liangmaqiao, alongside Bistro 108 and Chez Suzy, the restaurant previously ran as Maurya Darbar. An ensuing shake-up in management has meant a new foreigner-friendly name as well as greater coverage via the usual go-to food delivery apps.

Inside, Bombay Spice's most notable feature may be just how barebones it is. Yellow walls, red pleather booths, and a TV playing Bollywood hits only further belie the quality of the food on offer. That's because the Hyderabad-hailing head chef upholds his southern Indian state's penchant for masterfully spiced cuisine, making for a fiery home away from home.

The rolls of chargrilled lamb seekh kabab (RMB 80), chicken tikka (RMB 75), and fish tikka (RMB 88) demonstrate those strengths from the get-go, with the latter featuring big cuts of saffron-marinated basa fish and served with a spicy yogurt on the side.

The creamy chole punjabi (RMB 55), consisting of chickpeas cooked in a "secret tandoor recipe," again stood out for highlighting the kitchen's best attribute: no matter what the dish, each is packed with its own distinctive taste, sidestepping the flavor fatigue that you can sometimes experience when indulging in Indian food.

For the real deal, make sure to pair your curry with a biryani, one of Hyderabad's most popular dishes and distinctive from neighboring variations on account of it having developed in isolation as a meal for the monarch (Nizam) of the Hyderabad State. The result: a bowl brimming with especially fluffy basmati rice, chunks of marinated meat, onion, and an array of spices.

Bombay Spice also boasts being one of the few Indian restaurants in the city to offer hookah (RMB 68), which will go down a treat on the restaurant's terrace, sun shining and a cold Kingfisher in hand. What can we say, Bombay Spice, we're happy to have found you.

READ: Dig Into Beijing's Best Bar and Restaurant Openings in March

Bombay Spice Indian Restaurant
Daily 11am-midnight. Rm 105, 19 Tianze Road, Chaoyang District (155 2116 0297)
朝阳区天泽路19号北京草场105

Photos: Tom Arnstein