Sanlitun's Pi Bar Evokes Fond Memories of Hutong Cocktail Bars of Yore
Down the inconspicuous alley that connects Taikoo Li North to Xindong Road (northeast of Lily's American Diner), there sits a small bar that you may not think belongs. With plants framing the door, trendy 20-somethings glued to the stoop, and a "sign" made out of orange fluorescent tape just about visible through twiggy legs, it's even more likely that you'll walk past Pi Bar after mistaking it for the tail end of a party you weren't cool enough to be invited to. To do so would be a mistake.
That's because once inside, Pi Bar's decor and staff are warm and breezy, making a package that's wonderfully reminiscent of hutong cocktail bars that used to be a dime a dozen just two short years ago, except this time it's in Sanlitun.
The owners, two sisters, are otherwise involved in selling vintage clothes and furniture, and their fashionable edge is not lost in this narrow but lofty space. Unfinished, painted concrete walls are obscured by drapes and towering ferns, which in turn point towards the rustic, original beamed roof above. Meanwhile, the mixture of tiles and assorted "found" tables and chairs divide the venue into distinct areas and give the impression of cozy privacy wherever you settle. Unfortunately, the soundtrack, which touched upon everything from Tupac to Ozzy Osborne during our visit, doesn't quite do the space justice. Luckily, that's an easy fix.
So what about the drinks? Though the menu is still a work in progress (sassy additions such as Liar, Jealous, and F**k Off had been added upon our second visit), a constant is that each of the cocktails features a fresh fruit juice base and draw on some tiki inspiration, making them decidedly summery. It also means that those looking for something less sweet may want to seek counsel with the staff, who are more than willing to oblige individual preferences.
Our clear favorites off the bat include The Cuban No. 2 (RMB 60), a potent mix of rum, lime, and grenadine shaken well for a crisp and refreshing foam head. The Rummy (RMB 78), meanwhile, is equally invigorating for its combination of rum, pineapple juice, orgeat, and passion fruit over crushed ice and garnished with a pandan leaf. On opposite ends of the spectrum, there's also Wusu beer (RMB 38) and a selection of wine, as well as in-house made raspberry, plum, or osmanthus-infused baijiu (RMB 15 a shot) to knock you on your arse.
In short, Pi Bar is packed with personality but walks a fine line: it may be too rag-tag and dingy for the seasoned Sanlitun crowd as well as a little too expensive for Dongcheng's 50 kuai cocktail set. That may, however, also be their biggest draw – Pi's welcoming spirit just off the main Sanlitun drag is the perfect antidote to the polished and uptight cocktail bars nearby, and begs to be called home by anyone wanting to spend long evenings perched outside chatting to new friends with an iced cocktail in hand, embracing the old summer mantra of "well, maybe I'll stay for one more."
Pi Bar
5th Community, Xingfu Sancun, Chaoyang District
朝阳区幸福三村五巷
READ: Dig Into Beijing's Best New Restaurant Openings, Mar-Jul 2019
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Email: tomarnstein@thebeijinger.com
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Photos: Uni You, Tom Arnstein
