Hundun Hou 馄饨候

It doesn’t look like much – describing the decor as sterile would be a compliment – but this unassuming laozihao (time-honored brand) is still around after over a century, so they must be doing something right. We guess it’s something to do with their juicy, succulent and inexpensive wonton (hundun, RMB 6-13 per dish), which come buoyed by simple, hearty soups. Other staple dishes on offer include noodles, pancakes and several dim sum options, but whatever you opt for, your challenge is to try to spend RMB 100 for two in here. Hundunhou isn’t for everyone, but if it’s a gritty, “real China” experience you want, this is a fine place to start.