Kong Yiji 孔乙己

Named after the protagonist of a Lu Xun novel, this perennially packed restaurant serves classic Shaoxing dishes such as zuixia (drunken shrimp) and dongpo rou (stewed pork) amongst a proliferation of calligraphy and antique furniture. Try the surprisingly smooth and palatable huangjiu, a yellow rice wine. The Houhai branch's stand-alone private room is a perfect spot for a tête-à-tête, while the dishes at the more upmarket Block 8 venue place more emphasis on presentation - i.e. the peel-it-yourself bamboo shoots served over misty dry ice, which evoke the feeling of a bamboo forest at dawn. We also recommend the Jiaxing cui huya (嘉兴脆湖鸭 Jiaxing crispy duck), which is marinated in vegetable juices and other condiments, then hung to dry before being baked, as well as their signature “drunken” dishes: zao ji (“drunken chicken”) and zaoxiang daiyu (“drunken ribbon fish”). Don’t forget to pair your meal with a half catty of Shaoxing wine. The Block 8 branch has the feel of a town on the water, with a zigzagging stream running underneath the pavilions at the center of the dining area. Dark wood furniture, woven baskets and earthen pots add to the traditional feel.