Kuan Dian 宽店

No matter the season, hip youth spill over onto the rooftop terrace of this Drum Tower-area restaurant. Kuan Dian does a very fine original (yuanwei) wing, juicy and redolent with cumin and peppercorn. Spicier options, including the fearsome biantai la (“perversely spicy”), are available, but all wings cost a happy RMB 3.5. Chili-oil mashed potatoes and barbecued scallops and oysters round out the meal, and there’s Yanjing or Tsingtao to cool you down for RMB 5 per large bottle.