Grape Press: Burgundy Rising

“Grape Press” is a regular magazine column in which we recommend wines to suit various occasions and price points.

No one could claim that the “Bordeaux bubble” has burst in China. Certainly, there are relatively fewer sales for the likes of Château Lafite-Rothschild. But regular AC Bordeaux continues to dominate the import market, often at jaw-dropping prices given the generally average quality of the wines.

In recent years, the much smaller Burgundy region has begun to captivate Chinese hearts. Burgundy relies mainly on two well-known grape varieties – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – although half of Burgundy’s overall production comes from the Gamay grape of Beaujolais fame. Chardonnay, especially in oaked styles, can be quite a hit with Chinese consumers; Pinot Noir, although relatively high in acid, can appeal to palates preferring generally lower levels of tannin.

Burgundy will never be able to supply China with high volumes of wine. But it neither needs nor aspires to. Rarity value also has some cachet. There is already a shift, in fact, in world wine markets adjusting to the new thirst for high-end Burgundy in Hong Kong and now mainland China.

All of this month’s selections represent affordable, entry-level Burgundies that punch above their weight.

ONE TO QUAFF
2009 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret “La Superbe” Grand Vin Ordinaire Bourgogne Rouge
(Ruby Red, RMB 195)
Available at Enoterra
From a top producer, this wine actually includes a small amount of Gamay, but is mainly Pinot Noir. Pale ruby color, with red cherry and raspberry fruit, floral notes and a refreshing palate, light-bodied with low tannins.

ONE TO DRINK
2010 Henri Prudhon et Fils “Bourgogne Chardonnay”
(Globus Wine, RMB 238)
Available at Temple Restaurant Beijing, Morton’s Steakhouse
Affordable Chardonnay. Light gold in color in a style which promotes delicate lemon citrus fruit rather than oak. Light-medium bodied with zippy acidity and quite good length.

ONE TO SIP
2009 Maison Champy Bourgogne Rouge “Signature” Pinot Noir
(The Wine Republic, RMB 304)
Available at Mosto, Transit
A step up from regular Bourgogne Rouge. Medium ruby color with attractive red fruits and floral aromas, with some structure on the palate and enticing length.

Edward Ragg is co-founder, with Fongyee Walker, of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting, China’s leading independent wine consultancy and education service (www.longfengwines.com). They write for the world’s wine magazines and several publications in China.

Click here to see the January issue of the Beijinger in full.

This article originally appeared on page 26 of the January issue of the Beijinger.