Grape Press: Dip and Sip

“Grape Press” is a regular magazine column in which we recommend wines to suit various occasions and price points.

Whether you prefer jiaozi or xiaolongbao, wine is a fitting alcoholic beverage to accompany just about any dumpling. While a cold beer may suffice, wine’s inherent acidity provides a refreshing foil to the chewy texture of a dumpling wrapper, and the flavors, aromas and textures of wine are various enough to match just about any filling.

Consider the accompaniments on hand for your preferred dumpling of choice. Black vinegar, like wine, provides an acidic contrast; raw ginger and garlic are both also acidic, while being strongly flavored in their own right.

Meat-filled dumplings, whether or not they contain a soup, typically require full-flavored reds, although oaked Chardonnay may also work. The trick with the reds is to avoid very tannic wines. Fish-filled dumplings suit aromatic or oaked whites and also lighter reds, say, from Pinot Noir.

This month’s selections are all tried and tested wines for Beijing’s classic jiaozi, from pork-and-cabbage to lamb-and-carrot.

ONE TO QUAFF
2011 Trivento Torrontes, Mendoza, Argentina
(Pudao Wines, RMB 98)
Available at Nola
Torrontes is native to Argentina. This example is pale green-gold with characteristic notes of white flowers, perfume and white peach. Medium-bodied with bags of flavor, lifting medium acidity and quite good length. Torrontes can match just about any dumpling filling.

ONE TO DRINK
2010 Santa Rita Reserva Merlot, Maipo, Chile
(ASC Fine Wines, RMB 147)
Available at 1949–Jinbao Jie, CJW
Deep ruby with generous red and black plum fruit with a hint of herbaceousness. This is medium-bodied with lush fruit, medium chewy tannins, a nice line of medium acidity and attractive length. Chilean Merlot complements heavier dumplings.

ONE TO SAVOR
2009 Angove’s Vineyard Select Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia
(Mercuris, RMB 350)
Available at Jenny Lou’s
Winemaker Tony Ingle makes sumptuous wines with a distinct sense of place. Deep ruby, this has lovely blueberry and black cherry with pleasant vanilla oak. Full-bodied with dense but bright fruit, well-balanced medium acidity, ripe medium chewy tannins and persistent length. Pair with lamb-and-carrot.

Edward Ragg is co-founder, with Fongyee Walker, of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting, China’s leading independent wine consultancy and education service (www.longfengwines.com). They write for the world’s wine magazines and several publications in China.

Click here to see the November issue of the Beijinger in full.