Grape Press: Beat the Heat

“Grape Press” is a regular magazine column in which we recommend wines to suit various occasions and price points.

August is one of the toughest months for the sheer heat of the Chinese summer. Although alcohol is, of course, dehydrating – and there’s no substitute for water when you’re parched – there are “summer wines” that can prove refreshing.

Most wine lovers gravitate to whites and rosés in the heat, although there are few quality rosés in China. Whites from grapes like Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc provide zesty fruit and acidity that can refresh the palate. Typically, in warmer climes, it’s preferable to go for these acidic and usually not-tooalcoholic options.

For red wine lovers, though, there are various summer reds to pick, usually made from lower tannin grapes like Gamay, Pinot Noir and Tempranillo. Especially in styles without much oak, these wines can often be lightly chilled and make pleasant drinking with summer dishes.

All of this month’s selections will make welcome distractions from the heat.

ONE TO QUAFF
2011 Dominio del Plata Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontes, Argentina (EMW, RMB 192)
Available at SALT, Yuan Yuan (Huamao location)
Torrontes is a very aromatic white grape which thrives in Argentina. Susana Balbo is the winemaker responsible for this gold-green wine. It has pronounced orange blossom, grapey and perfumed aromas followed by a medium-bodied palate with low acidity and good length.

ONE TO DRINK
2010 Reichsrat Von Buhl Riesling Trocken, Mosel, Germany
(La Bin, RMB 350)
Available at Vinolia, Ellingen Brauhaus
One of the stars of the Mosel, this is a dry thirst-quenching Riesling. Medium green-gold with attractive green apple and mineral aromas, the palate is light-bodied with zippy high acidity, delicate fruit and impressive length.

ONE TO SAVOR
2008 Misha’s Vineyard “The High Note” Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand
(Jebsen, RMB 495)
Available at China World Hotel, Beijing Hong Kong Jockey Club
Central Otago can produce rather rich styles of Pinot Noir, but this is a more delicate, perfumed example suitable for summer drinking. Medium ruby in color, the nose offers floral red cherry fruit with integrated spicy oak. The palate is medium-bodied with silky, soft tannins, bright acidity and very good length.

Click here to see the Beijinger August issue in full.