Xiaolongxia: Alternative Options for Dining on Beijing's Favorite Summer Food
Come the warmer months, one sound rings out from thousands of restaurants around Beijing: the sound of cracking crayfish shells. Beijing diners have developed a taste for these traditionally southern shellfish over the past few years, producing a huge market that sees the best crayfish being shifted north from areas such as Hubei and Jiangsu in the millions during the height of the season in May and June. The current favorite preparation sees them cooked in a mala broth laced with chilis and mouth-numbing Sichuan peppercorns. Guijie is usually the go to dining destination for these spiny beauties, but this year we thought we would cast the net a little further and see what alternative preparations can be found around town.
Bear in mind, this is not a delicate activity. At many restaurants that serve “little lobsters,” as they’re known in Chinese, they come with a side of plastic gloves and a mountain of moist towelettes. That may, or may not, make it a good choice for say, a first date.
Cold: Chilled Crayfish in Huadiao Jiu (RMB 298 per 20, RMB 149 per 10), Nanjing Impressions
For a food that’s served in summer, mala crayfish have always seemed like an overly warm food. Luckily there is solace to be found in Nanjing Impressions’ chilled crayfish in huadiao jiu. Cooked crayfish are soaked in this slightly sweet variety of yellow wine before being served to customers on a bed of ice. Note that none of the alcohol is cooked off – no driving home if you eat a plate by yourself.
Non-Spicy: Garlic Crayfish (RMB 8-12 per crayfish), Hua’s Restaurant
We recommend avoiding Guijie with the exception of Hua’s Restaurant. This venerable courtyard dining institution serves up our favorite non-spicy crayfish dish, topped instead with mounds and mounds of crushed garlic. The garlic melts into the slightly oily cooking liquor to produce a culinary experience not far removed from lobsters with garlic butter (except without the hefty price tag). Hua’s also has a dedicated crayfish restaurant on Dongzhimen Neidajie across from Raffles City.
Delivery: Hot and Spicy Crayfish (RMB 85 per 12), Jacky’s Shrimp
WeChat-based crayfish delivery company Jacky’s Shrimp 夹克的虾 (WeChat ID: jiakedexia) recently raised over RMB 7 million in funding, so you know they mean business. Order online via their WeChat interface, choose your delivery time, pay up via WeChat Wallet or Alipay, and an order of (very!) spicy crayfish will arrive at your door in next to no time. Other spicy dishes such as shrimp, snails, and chicken are also available.
Modern: Thirteen Flavor Crayfish (RMB 175), Shaoxiashi Jingcai
Newly-opened Gongti restaurant Shaoxiashi Jingcai is clearly aiming to punch above the usual crayfish dining experience, with its prime location and on-trend “factory chic” décor. Their signature 13-flavor crayfish are cooked with – you guessed it – a blend of 13 different spices to produce a mildly hot dish that marks a pleasant departure from the usual mouth-searing mala. Wash the crayfish down with a range of imported Belgian beers, including Delirium Tremens and Liefmans.
How to Eat Crayfish
1. Hold the crayfish with the head in one hand and the tail in the other, between your thumb and
index finger.
2. Pull the head away from the tail with a slight twisting motion.
3. Pinch the tail all over to crack and loosen the shell.
4. Peel back the shell starting from the wide part of the tail.
5. Pull out the meat (de-vein if needed) and enjoy!
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Email: robynnetindall@thebeijinger.com
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Photos: Joey Guo, Ken, courtesy of Nanjing Impressions
