Certainly not "Mexican," but solid

Joined: Dec 28, 2008
Posts: -3361
Review of
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If I have any complaint about Luga's, it's that misleading word, "Mexican" on their sign and menu. I don't know where Luga picked up that word from - maybe he heard some other expats throwing it around and thought it sounded catchy - but I'm pretty sure he (or whoever is in charge of the food) has never actually eaten Mexican food in his life.

To be fair: the food is tasty and I usually enjoy it - in fact Luga's is one of my favorite places for a casual dinner in SLT. Nevertheless, I think calling it a Mexican restaurant would technically constitute false advertising (if umm.... this weren't China). I wouldn't even call it Tex Mex, though that would still be a much more accurate label. Perhaps it's unfair of me to pin this authenticity rant onto Luga, since this is seems to be the common trend for Beijing's "Mexican" food scene (BeiMex?) and I have yet to find a place here that does any better of a job, but someone has to take the heat. So here goes.

Let's start with the chicken burrito, which, admittedly, is my favorite item on the menu. It's pretty big (I've never had the courage to order the "large" one since the so-called "small" burrito is usually enough) and a decent value for the price. It's just that... well... I don't know how to break it to Luga, but that's not a burrito - it's a wrap. For crying out loud, it's CUT DOWN THE MIDDLE. I'm fairly sure if a taco joint in southern California ever cut a burrito in half before serving it to you they'd be looted and demolished in the ensuing riots. I'm a snob in this respect - if I'm not holding two pounds of aluminum-wrapped deliciousness that I have to carefully squeeze and manipulate to avoid spilling and tearing [phallic imagery toned down for your convenience], well, that's just not a burrito experience.

The meat inside is quite tasty, so however they're marinating or preparing it, it's working. But here are some customary ingredients I expect some combination of in a burrito: beans, rice, cheese, guacamole, sour cream, salsa, pico de gallo, meat of some sort, and, in some more controversial cases, french fries. With so many delicious choices of ingredients, I guess it's only natural that Luga eventually decided on.... lettuce and bell peppers. I mean, I know this is China and you have to work with the available ingredients.... but if that's the case, at least call it something more accurate, like "Mexican-flavored fusion". I end up drowning it in Jalapeno Tobasco to give it a better semblance of Mexican food (ironic in itself?).

The quesadilla is pretty good, but to me is less filling and flavorful than the burritos while costing more. But it does have the cheese factor and it's lots of people's favorite, so there you go.

The "Do-it-yourself guacamole" (which would be more accurately called "Watch-us-do-it-for-you guacamole") was disappointingly bland. I don't know why - they appeared to have all the right ingredients... yet somehow it just didn't do anything for me. And I could normally lick guacamole out of the bowl.

The nachos were good - no complaints here except I wish it came standard with beans and/or guacamole. Don't order this as a main course unless you want to be sick.

18-kuai (?) Corona's during Happy Hour (before 7pm) are great.

Prices are reasonable. A meal for two usually runs around 100 kuai (+-20).
In conclusion, it's a good restaurant, just not Mexican. As far as BeiMex goes, Luga's is as good as any. Stick with the burritos and quesadillas and take your expectations and nostalgia elsewhere, compadre.

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