Back in the DPRK: Nicholas Bonner on Travels in North Korea

After discovering the enthralling culture of North Korea while studying in Beijing over two decades ago, UK-born Nicholas Bonner has helped establish Beijing as a base for those interested in exploring the DPRK - see the end of this post for details of his company's upcoming Mass Games tours.. Countless trips and three documentary films later, Nick is still enamored with all North Korea has to offer and hopes to continue connecting people with the DPRK.

Why and how did you become interested in the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK)?
While studying Chinese here in the early 90s, my friends and I had a North Korean mate we all played football with. He was going back to North Korea and invited us to come visit. So, in 1993 we took our first tour of about eight people to the DPRK, and I found the country intensely interesting.

What were your first impressions?
At the time of my first trip to the DPRK, there weren’t that many differences between Beijing and Pyongyang. Both cities were being rebuilt. But now, Beijing and Pyongyang are very different. Pyongyang was totally erased during the Korean War (1950-1953). So for a landscape architect, it’s fascinating to see a city rebuilt on Socialist principles. Pyongyang has a lot of green space, there isn’t much traffic and there’s an amazing array of architecture. Not to everyone’s liking, but if you like Corbusier and that socialist realist style, it’s paradise.

How did you get involved in Koryo Tours? What inspired you to start a company specifically geared towards tourism in North Korea?
North Korea is such a unique country, so it’s important to encourage people to experience it. Many believe North Korea isn’t even open to tourism. So we provide a great service to both parties involved. What’s nice is the interaction between Westerners and North Koreans. The idea that one person can interact and make a difference is great. Traveling there is a great opportunity to see that life goes on. We all put trousers on one leg at a time. We’re all pretty similar in the end. It is a privilege to have that kind of access to a country. I think that’s what makes it so fun, and why the experience should be shared.

Why go to North Korea?
Not seeing this country is a travesty, especially now. North Korea is so different to everything else and here in Beijing it is on your doorstep. You also understand a place a lot better if you spend time there. All the information you get about North Korea is filtered by Western media, or you get the other extreme if you read a North Korean piece – you certainly don’t get a very balanced opinion.

How have you seen tourism in North Korea change over the years?
It hasn’t necessarily gotten any easier to travel there, but the number of people going has increased. Each year we take about half the total number of Western tourists that go. Ten years ago it was about 50 tourists a year and now it is 2,000 a year. Also over the years, we’ve done a lot more cultural exchanges – whether football, school or art. We are not travel agents by any means – although that is our mainstay – but our interest is bridging the cultural gap between North Korea and the rest of the world.

Who is the typical person interested in traveling to North Korea?
Most customers are from Europe, Canada and the United States. They’re typically not the kind of travelers who simply go to Hainan. There are two types of people who typically go on these tours: people who are collecting countries; or informed people who have read about it and want to see it for themselves.

What advice do you give to your customers traveling to the DPRK?
No matter how you go – go. Go with an open mind. Avoid going in with your own preconceptions and go in prepared to just observe. Travelers should also keep in mind that they act as ambassadors for their countries. It will be one of the most fascinating trips you will ever go on. Everyone we’ve taken says it’s the trip of a lifetime, and these are people who have traveled all over the world.

Tell us about the current film projects you’re working on in the DPRK.
We have been working on a romantic comedy. Why a romantic comedy? After shooting three documentaries, we thought it was time to take on a new challenge and try something different. I hate very much this black and white image we have and portray of North Korea, it’s such a clichéd, knee-jerk reaction. It is a very ignorant perception. Film is such an excellent vehicle to show other countries and their character. So filming in North Korea has been a great opportunity to break down perceptions and show that North Koreans do have a sense of humor.

What has it been like filming in North Korea?
It is difficult, but not impossible. Though everything is nationalized, we’re not dealing with the government, but those in the film industry. They know what they’re doing, but we have to strike a balance between them understanding our goals and trusting our intentions.

What do you consider your greatest accomplishment with Koryo Tours?
Though tourism is our foundation in North Korea and helping people have these amazing trips is rewarding, the cultural projects we organize are very exciting. Giving North Koreans a view of the outside world, as well as Westerners an insight into the country is very gratifying. These trips change people and their attitudes – Western attitudes about North Korea and North Korean attitudes about the West.

Has there been a favorite trip or tour you’ve gone on? Why?
Every trip is amazing, beyond amazing. It’s one of the most incredible countries possible to visit and that’s the appeal. But, one of my favorites was having The New York Symphony come over to North Korea. It was such an important and great cultural exchange.

Koryo Tours has been officially informed by the Korea International Travel Company that Arirang Mass Gymnastics (Mass Games) will be performed in Pyongyang from August 2-October 10, 2010. The Mass Games are described by Koryo as, "A synchronized socialist-realist spectacular, featuring over 100,000 participants in a 90 minute display of gymnastics, dance, acrobatics, and dramatic performance, accompanied by music and other effects, all wrapped in a highly politicized package."

You can apply for the Mass Games tour here: http://www.koryogroup.com/travel_tourApplication.php

Visit www.koryogroup.com for more information about other Koryo tours and the projects they’re working on in and with North Korea.