Lao Beijing Snacks: Food in Bowls

In the Beijing snack realm, bowls are ubiquitous. They are used to hold a near endless variety of food, even drinks (see douzhi below). But exactly what are the cooks ladling into those colorful plastic bowls? Below are a selection of the most popular traditional xiaochi you’ll find served up in bowls. Explore and enjoy.

PHYLUM: Dessert (originally folk) ORDER: Chilled GENUS: Sweet, cold
SPECIES: xingren doufu (杏仁豆腐 almond tofu)
Identifying marks: White gelatinous cubes topped with sugared osmanthus syrup; their blossoms are often spotted floating on top.
Behavior: Offers a firmer texture than Jell-O. Its chilled, mild sweetness refreshes the palate.
Field notes: The genuine article is made from ground almond powder and agar-agar; watch out for fakes made from almond essence and gelatin, or tofu topped with almond milk.
Habitat: Spotted at Jiumen; best specimens found at Shaguo Ju.

PHYLUM: Snack (folk) ORDER: Boiled GENUS: Salty, hot
SPECIES: miancha (面茶 millet tea)
Identifying marks: Smooth yellow paste, covered with a thin layer of brown sesame paste.
Behavior: Gummy and wobbly, a thicker version of porridge. Sesame and salt add flavor to an otherwise plain dish.
Field notes: Real Beijingers forgo the spoon, and sip unstirred miancha while turning the bowl, which keeps flavors separated.
Habitat: Spotted at Huguosi and other snack shops.

PHYLUM: Dessert (imperial) ORDER: Boiled GENUS: Sweet, cold
SPECIES: guozigan (果子干 dried fruit soup)
Identifying marks: Golden or red in color. A thick soup studded with dried persimmons and apricots, topped with slices of lotus root.
Behavior: Cold and jammy, extremely sweet; lotus root adds light crunch.
Field notes: The thickest versions taste exactly like jam, and would be excellent on toast.
Habitat: Usually appears in autumn or winter. Found with other Chinese desserts, spotted at tripe shops. Best at Nailao Wei.

PHYLUM: Breakfast (folk) ORDER: Boiled GENUS: Sour, hot
SPECIES: douzhi (豆汁 fermented mung bean juice)
Identifying marks: Resembles dirty dishwater. Smells like sour eggs.
Behavior: Served in a big bowl, slurped with joy by Beijingers. Commonly paired with jiaoquan (焦圈donut) and salty preserved vegetables.
Field notes: An accidental discovery made from the watery dregs of mung bean processing. Tastes exactly like it smells – sour and stinky. Also said to be very healthy, full of vitamin C, fiber and protein.
Habitat: Seen at local breakfast stalls. Served all day at snack chains (Huguosi).

PHYLUM: Breakfast (folk) ORDER: Steamed, stewed GENUS: Salty, warm
SPECIES: doufu nao (豆腐脑 soft tofu)
Identifying marks: Large block of silken tofu submerged under a thick brown sauce of braised meat, mushroom, and day lily buds. The Han version uses pork; the Muslim variety uses mutton.
Behavior: Eaten very hot. Slippery due to luxuriously soft tofu and viscious sauce. Often paired with shaobing.
Field notes: Doufu nao lives or dies by the quality of the tofu. A good dish would have tofu like a smooth dome, not be broken, burnt, or acidic (which happens if the soybean milk isn’t cooked properly). The sauce is gummy, akin to runny glue.
Habitat: Most famous specimen at Nanlaishun.

PHYLUM: Dessert (imperial) ORDER: Baked GENUS: Sweet/sour, cold
SPECIES: nailao (奶酪 rice-wine yogurt)
Identifying marks: Brilliant white, texture of soft tofu.
Behavior: Baked and chilled milk and rice wine mixture, a delicate substance with a texture between soft tofu and yogurt.
Field notes: Refreshingly delicate with the sweet notes of milk and a hint of sourness; also lingering sweet rice wine flavor. Watch out for less authentic versions that are sticky, not smooth, and are made with artificial thickening agents and flavors.
Habitat: Best specimens at Nailao Wei. Nanluogu Xiang has several good nailao shops.

Try it:
Huguosi Xiaochi 1) 93 Huguosi Dajie, Xicheng District; 2) 214 Dongsi Beidajie,
Dongcheng District. 护国寺小吃店,1) 西 城区护国寺大街93号; 2) 东城区东四北大 街214号 (There are many more scattered throughout the city)
Jiumen Xiaochi 1 Xiaoyou Hutong, Deshengmennei Dajie, Xicheng District. 九门小吃,西城区德胜门内大街孝友胡同1号
Nailao Wei 1) Rm 107, 202 Guang’anmennei Dajie, Xuanwu District; 2) 148 Xisi Beidajie, Xicheng District; 3) Inside Jiumen Xiaochi 1 Xiaoyou Hutong, Houhai, Xicheng District. 奶酪魏,1) 宣武 区广安门内大街202号107室; 2) 西城区西四 北大街148号; 3) 西城区后海孝友胡同1号九 门小吃内
Nanlaishun 12 Nancaiyuan Jie, Xuanwu District. 南来顺,宣武区南菜园街12号
Shaguo Ju 60 Xisi Nandajie, Xicheng District. 砂锅居,西城区西四南大街60号