The Man With The Good Pigs: Jaime Pastor of “Cinco Jotas”

Pigs may not be the most respected animal on the planet, but somewhere in the southwest of Spain there is a breed of pigs that feasts on nuts and herbs, roams freely, and produces some of the most highly valued pork on the planet. Iberico ham is not only unique in its marbeling and flavor, but also because it’s chock full of oleic acid, which lowers cholesterol. Agenda met with Jaime Pastor, the Asia Area Manager for “Cinco Jotas” to learn more about the traditions behind the healthiest ham on Earth.

Tell us a little bit about your company.
Sanchez Romero Carvajal 5J, or “Cinco Jotas,” was founded in 1879 in Jabugo, which lies in the southwestern part of Spain. It is the oldest Iberico ham factory in the world and belongs to one of the ten oldest family companies, the Osborne Group.
Because our company has a history of more than 130 years, we place a great deal of importance on quality standards, and are committed to sharing not only our product, but our culture and history with our customers. This is particularly important internationally, and we place great efforts on listening to the needs of our customers

So what makes Iberico pigs special?
This breed of pig is characterized by dark skin and black hoofs, in addition to a gene that allows fat to grow in its muscles. This is what makes 5J hams so succulent. Iberico pigs are actually called “olive trees with legs” because their meat contains high levels of oleic acid, which means that eating Iberico ham is healthy, as it actually produces good cholesterol!
At our company, we individually select the pigs and they go through rigorous quality controls. The pigs are then fed a diet of acorns and herbs, which gives the meat its sweet and nutty flavor. They are bred in Jabugo, which possesses a special micro-climate and pasture land crucial for the curing of Iberico Ham. The mountains of Aracena, located next to Jabugo, have been declared a special biosphere by UNESCO.

Your company employs Master Carvers – why is that? Our master carvers, or “Maestro Cortador” in the original Spanish, are trained in the best way to slice the ham, so as best to feature its unique texture, aroma, and flavor. Our company is unique in that we offer both whole pieces and hand-sliced and packaged ham to our customers.
We also work with forwarders and logistic companies that make sure that it is consistently kept cold throughout the transportation process.

Have your ham products been well-received in Beijing?
Initially it was challenging to prove how special our ham was to Chinese consumers, but we’re becoming more and more popular with them. At present we are stocked at all Spanish restaurants in Beijing, gourmet shops, and other fine dining spots around the city
5J Pure Iberico 100% Bellota Ham has won the highest award in the “Superior Taste Awards” organized by the International Taste & Quality Institute (iTQi) in 2009 and 2010. iTQi gave 5J’s ham three bright stars – a competition record. Our product has also satisfied the most important culinary institutions of Europe, including: Maîtres Cuisiniers from France and Belgium, the Academy of Culinary Arts, the Federación de Asociaciones de Cocineros in Spain and Jeunes Restaurateurs d´Europe. China, a nation of gourmands, is sure to fall in love with it as well.

Iberico ham has been called “the best culinary ambassador Spain can have.” Would you agree?
Meeting the top chefs in the world has given me the chance to taste dishes from the most imaginative minds, many of whom have their own way of enjoying the ham.

Spain, along with other European nations, has been in the news for it’s financial problems. How has the economic situation impacted your business?
There has been no major impact to date, but since financial problems have caused many Spanish farmers to stop slaughtering their pigs, we will experience a shortage of this type of ham in about three years.

Why five J’s?
Sanchez Romero Carvajal 5J is founded on five principles. First, we guarantee that our ham comes from 100% pure-bred Iberico pigs. Second, we make sure that those pigs have a healthy diet and lifestyle – they feed on acorns and are free to roam – that allows their fat to filter into their muscle tissue, giving our 5J ham a uniquely rich flavor and juiciness. Third, since 1879, our Iberico ham factory – the oldest in the world – has used only traditional methods to cure and season our hams. Fourth, we produce our ham locally in a small town called Jabugo, located in the Sierra de Aracena and Picos de Aroche Natural Park, a UNESCO-designated biosphere reserve. Last but certainly not least, we hope that our company embodies the ethic and tradition of the “Maestro Jamonero,” an exceptional figure who guarantees quality throughout the entire production process. To us, the production of Iberico ham is more than a business – it is an art that has been passed down from generation to generation for more than 120 years.

How is the ham prepared?
The Iberico ham curing and seasoning process is much more extensive and arduous than that for white ham. The three-stage process – salting with sea salt, natural drying, and approximately three years of curing in a cellar – is carried out using only traditional methods.

Where can we find Iberico ham in Beijing?
Our ham is currently available at most of the Spanish restaurants around town – Carmen, Migas, Ole, and Niajo all offer Iberico ham, as does gourmet shop Taste of Spain. Some fine dining venues like The Room also serve our products.

What are your personal favorite places around town?
Because my job involves traveling a lot and eating out most of the time, when I am in Beijing, I love staying in and enjoying a simple, home-cooked meal (with some 5J Iberico Ham, of course – I think I am addicted!). I also love listening to live music; some of my favourite venues are CD Blues Café, East Shore Jazz Club, and Yugong Yishan.

Carmen Daily 11am-2am. Nali Patio (opposite north entrance of Let's Burger), 81 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District (6417 8038) 朝阳区三里屯北街81号（哪里花园边）

Migas 米家思 Daily 10am-3pm, 5-11pm. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (5208 6061) 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园6层

Ole Sun-Wed 11am-midnight, Thu 11am-2am, Fri-Sat 11am-4am. Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu (next to Salsa Caribe), Chaoyang District. (6595 9677) 朝阳区工体北路4号院(卡利宾旁边)

Niajo Daily 11am-3pm, 6-11pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (5208 6052)
朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 www.niajo.com

Taste of Spain Daily noon-9pm. 1/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6413 2663) 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园1层

ROOMbeijing ROOM 北京 Sun-Wed 11am-2am (kitchen closes midnight), Thu-Sat 11am-4am (kitchen closes 2am). Rm 301-302, 3/F, Park Life, Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (8517 2033) 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心301-302室 www.room-beijing.com
CD Blues Café and Bar Daily 4pm-late. Nongzhanguan Lu (south of the Agricultural Exhibition Hall), Dongsanhuan Lu, Chaoyang District. (6506 8288). 朝阳区东三环路农展馆大门往南300米

East Shore Live Jazz Café 东岸咖啡 Daily 3pm-2am. 2/F, 2 Qianhai Nanyanlu (just to the west of the post office on Di’anmenwai Dajie), Xicheng District. (8403 2131) 西城区地安门外大街前海南沿2号楼2层

Yugong Yishan 愚公移山 Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng District. (6404 2711) 东城区平安大道张自忠路3-2号(地铁五号线张自忠路站往西100米)www.yugongyishan.com

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