The Pie Who Came In From The Cold: Soviet Snacking in Haidian

In this little bakery, a combination of factory and retail space, the air is almost saturated with the scent of butter. You almost sense yourself being coated in a golden, buttery halo, and you wonder if that sense was shared by the Russian “foreign experts” who, over half a century ago, were the store’s first customers.

Between 1949 and 1960, over 20,000 Soviet specialists and advisers were based in China, helping rebuild the country’s economy following the establishment of the People’s Republic. Some of those specialists lived and worked in the Zhongguancun area. For them, the lack of Western-style butter-based snacks seemed the most pressing problem to solve. Thus it was that in April 1957, Zhongguancun Tea Snack Shop was born.

Butter-filled pastries and cookies dominate the shelves. Curry puffs, cream cakes and apple pies are among the most popular items. Prices for cookies range from RMB 20-35 per jin. Some are already packed into bags and piled on the shelves, but you’re welcome to choose your own assortment.

The apple pie is a real bargain. Covered with solid pastry rather than a lattice design, the double-crust pie seals in moisture and fragrance for maximum flavor. The filling, made from fresh fruit, is slightly sweet and subtle with cinnamon. The crunchy, cookie-like edge is another pleasure. Picky customers might complain that the buttery taste is not as satisfying as the aroma, but at RMB 36 for a whole pie – which managed to feed over eight people – can you really demand perfection?

A regal ayi with a white uniform and blue apron is the sole employee; she seems not overly concerned about maximizing business. Customers come in, and are dealt with – no smile, just a series of crisp, clinical movements. Three rules to remember: Don’t touch, don’t peek,and don’t ask too much. Now that you know about this shop, you’ve become a specialist too – so don’t go around acting like a spy.

Zhongguancun Tea Snack Shop.
Daily 8.30am-6.30pm. Zhongguancun Beiyijie
(opposite the west gate of the National Science Library at the Chinese Academy of Science), Haidian District (6255 2328) 中关村茶点, 海淀区中关村北一街（中科院国家科学图书馆西侧门对面）