Sadler Up! Claudio on Michelin Stars and Flying for Food

Claudio Sadler, the two-Michelin-starred chef and owner of Sadler Ristorante, was in Beijing recently on one of his twice-yearly visits to check in on his Ch’ien Men 23 project. We caught up with him to talk about the lengths he’d go for a great meal, the burden a Michelin star brings, and why he’s got more chance of achieving the elusive third star in Beijing than in Milan.

Which chefs or restaurants do you most admire?
There’s Ferran Adrià. I like what he does, but it’s not my idea of what a kitchen should be. And then Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence – very good. One of my favorite restaurants is L’Osier, a Michelin three-star restaurant in Tokyo, though it’s closed for renovations at the moment.

How far would you travel for a great meal?
Usually I don’t go far to eat. I’ll visit one of Boulud’s restaurants while I’m in New York. When I was young, I’d take a plane just for dinner in a special restaurant. But not now – I’m too busy these days!

With both of you involved at Ch’ien Men 23, do Daniel Boulud and yourself ever talk business?
No, not really. I didn’t know him when I opened here, so we’ve never talked business. We’ve each got our own thing.

Any plans to open another restaurant in China?
No. At least not for now.

You’ve got a two Michelin-star restaurant in Milan. What do those stars mean to you?
It’s a big honor for me – the Michelin guides are among the most profess-ional gourmet guides in the world.

Do you feel pressure because of the Michelin stars?
Sure, it’s very difficult. You have to maintain the restaurant’s high standards day by day. You train people up, then when they’ve learned everything, they’ll leave. Then you have to start all over again with new people.

So when will the third Michelin star come?
I don’t think my restaurant in Milan could be a three-star. It doesn’t have the ambiance – it doesn’t have enough space. It only has 35 seats. Possibly here in Beijing, though! There’s a lot of space, more facilities, and more comfort. What do you think?

Photo: Courtesy of Sadler Ristorante