Xinyuan Glee: Another Visit to Suzumei

Suzumei is to the phrase “best-kept secret” what Quanjude is to “tourist trap.” Just finding this tiny Japanese restaurant makes you feel part of an elite club. The reward? A wooden board plated up with beautifully carved raw fish, Jimi Hendrix on the stereo and a bottle of sake big enough to christen a warship.

A selection of five basic types of sashimi costs RMB 150, but they’ll steer you toward the finest cuts of the day. Recently, I dined on some almighty scallops (RMB 38), served with coral (that’s the orange bit) and all. Truly mollusks of distinction.

There’s little else on the menu I’d hesitate to big up. Yakitori chicken skewers (RMB 7) are dark, sticky and succulent – easily the equal of anything at the better-known Tori Tei.

And the tempura exemplifies finesse. Especially one dish the menu calls “sand boner” (RMB 28) – a delicate flat fish in a light, fine-spun batter, it’s an altogether more pleasant experience than the name would suggest. Green asparagus (RMB 18) is charred on the grill and served in a light soy dressing. So simple, so tasty.

The only wobble was a tragically overdone grilled mackerel (RMB 26). But it’s easily forgivable when the welcome is this warm, the vibe this cool, and the sake bottles so big they write your name on them to save for next time. I’ll be back.

Suzumei
Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight (or until last customer leaves). 1/F, Bldg 6, Sanyuanli residential compound (north side), 2 Xinyuan Jie, Chaoyang District. (6466 0204) 朝阳区新源街2号三源里小区6号楼1层北侧

Photos: Judy Zhou