Art Hike: 798
For those who might have been out of town, the August issue of our magazine featured five Art Hikes: short pedestrian routes in five of Beijing's artsy areas (from the obvious like 798 to the non-obvious like Sanlitun). Included in those routes were stops at not only galleries and other art venues, but also restaurants, cafes, shops and the like, for full- or half-days of cultured constitutionals.
We figured the October holiday would be a good time to try some of these walks out (if you haven't already been), so here we go, starting with a classic.
798
Drop-off location: 798 Entrance, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu
How to get there: From Liangmaqiao subway stop, hop on Bus 955, 909 or 402 to Dashanzi Lukou Nan (大山子路口南)
Specialty gear: Canvas tote and either a DSLR or your very own photographer to follow you around.
Camouflage: Loose but angular tunics or frocks, neon shoes, work boots, extreme haircuts.
Flora: The most diverse range of foliage in one place: black & white and color photography, classical to contemporary painting, installations,
multimedia, video and sculpture, all ranging from amateur to world-class.
Fauna: Eager college students and wizened academic types. On the weekends, entire flocks of tourists in matching fluorescent polos.
Trail Split: For this mammoth and densely packed art district, we’ve got two trails for you. Choose one according to the visual and conceptual workout you’re anticipating, or mix and match.
Trail #1: Beginner Level
Trailhead: First time hitting the path? Start with the Ullens Center for Contemporary Art (UCCA)(1), perhaps the most important nonprofit
museum space for Chinese contemporary art in Beijing.
South of there, down Taoci Yijie, the Iberia Center for Contemporary Art(2) is another large-scale space, though with a focus on video art and independent film.
Pit stop: Grab a very affordable lunch at the Shidu noodle shop(3), tucked in a small alley east of Iberia. Appreciate the simple white lines of the zhacai rousi noodles as you slurp them down.
Paper trail: Wander into 360-Degree Design Shop(4) in an alley just northeast from lunch. The modern and nerdily cozy space stocks journals, design books, maps and all manner of creative crafted everyday use items. Pick up supplies to diligently (and stylishly) document your journey.
Photo opportunities: Stumble into the cavernous 798 Space(5), the best-kept model of the old Bauhaus factories. Brush up on the rules of perspective as you peer at the row of vaulted ceilings and cement pillars. Photo exhibits rotate in its mildly claustrophobic lofted exhibit space. Across the way, 798 Photo Gallery(6) offers a contrasting white-wall take on photography. Browse its ample collection of prints for sale.
Watering hole: Stop by At Cafe(7), started by Huang Rui, one of the fathers of China’s contemporary art movement. Illy espresso and exposed brick give you a boost for your cross-798 jaunt.
Final stop: Head up to 798’s north side to check out Pace Beijing(8);
its weighty reputation muscles in plenty of high-profile solo shows. On your way, you’ll pass by many of the smaller and newer spaces we’ve suggested for those a little more familiar with 798. Curious? Take a look below and stop on in.
Trail #2: Intermediate Level
Trailhead: Begin your walk with Long March Space(9). Well-produced but often whimsical and multilayered video exhibits get you off to a cheeky start.
Photo opportunity: Make a sharp right turn behind a circular shop to find Galerie Paris-Beijing(10) and its selection of international photography.
Hidden path: Head east to the next north-south alley and turn left, then left again at the giant birdcage. Down this path, you’ll find both Galleria Continua(11) and Tang Contemporary(12), venues committed to a quiet yet steady flow of high-quality envelope-pushing contemporary works.
Final stretch: Check out Magician Space(13) and Beyond Art Space(14) on your way back down toward the main avenue. Magician specializes in video art, while Beyond oscillates between pretty paintings and more demanding installations.
Trail Merge: Park it at Switch!(15), the UCCA’s attached café and perform complex taxonomy on the specimens wandering by while munching on the deconstructed forms of fried calamari.
Souvenir shops: So plentiful it’ll make your head spin. The UCCA Store(16) always stocks an inspiring selection of clothes and limited edition art prints, while the ultra-artsy FEI Space(17) and Water Stone(18) are musts for the fashion-minded.
Camp out: Wind northeast to boutique art hotel Grace Beijing(19) and catch yourself a beautiful steamed black cod at it's main restaurant, Yi House (previously called Fennel). Assess the color palette of the pale white fish contrasted against an amber ponzu sauce and bright greens. Then cozy up to Gossip Bar and nurse a Brandy Crusta as you survey the dark-wooded decor.
Hazards: Stimulus overload, high noise-to-signal ratio, the irresistible urge to get in on the Chinese art market until you remember your poor, thin wallet.
First aid: Get back to basics. Run through D-Park(20) and track down old factory buildings with their industrial machinery still intact. Climb and swing, snap photos or just sit in the stillness of retired industry.
