Impressions: Da Dong Spring Celebration, Bei's New Chef, Mercante

We were kept both busy and full this week with trips to Da Dong, Bei and the new Mercante. Each of the dining experiences was vastly different, but all three gave us plenty to be excited about for food in this city. Read on for our impressions.

Chef Dong Zhenxiang, the mastermind behind Da Dong, hosted a welcome back party for "spring" on Monday at the Tuanjiehu branch of his roast duck empire, and a few colleagues and I had the pleasure of attending. It was a lively 12-course journey that left little doubt as to why the place consistently wins as "Best Restaurant of the Year (Chinese)" in our Reader Restaurant Awards.

Precious few Chinese restaurants in town have the chutzpah to attempt what Da Dong is doing. For instance, the dish pictured above was presented as a hollow globe of ice that cracked open to reveal a bowl of sauteed snail with leek.

On our way out, we got a chance to briefly meet the man, and I can safely say that he's larger than life. It might have something to do with the fact that he's over six feet tall, but it's also helped by the way he carries himself. He has a self-assuredness similar to that of the well-established Chinese artists I've seen lolling around exhibitions and galleries. Chef Dong is unequivocally an artist of the edible. For more on the man, zip over to our interview with him from 2010.

We also got a chance this week to try a variant of the seasonal tasting menu created by Bei's new chef Xavier Mauerhofer. The meal is one of the best I've had in Beijing. Chef Xavier continues in the same vein as his predecessor, melding meticulous technique and high-flying creativity with Asian dishes and flavors.

All six courses had their own praiseworthy moments, but my two favorites were a salmon spring roll and a seven-hour-braised wagyu short rib.

A group of us dropped by Mercante at 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong on Wednesday and had a lovely time of it. Space is tight, so you'll want to call ahead (8402 5098) before making the trip. Alternatively, you could go for broke and round up 19 or so of your friends to book the place.

We've got a proper review on the way, but the short of it is that I'd recommend the beef fillet (RMB 128) and panna cotta (RMB 36). The homemade pasta options (RMB 58-78) are special, but portions are so small that they will set you back if you're planning to sate yourself on them.

Waiting times for food may stretch as more people find out about this place, but, for now, it's a cozy experience that combines the benefits of eating out with the comforting atmosphere of eating at home.

Finally, my condolences to you if you have to work this weekend. But you can make up for the brutal seven-day work week next Tuesday with a battery of Korean-inspired cocktails. Saveurs De Coree is hosting a food and cocktail pairing night on Tuesday, April 3 (6.30-11.30pm). Drinks were designed by Mao Mao Chong and Stephanie Rocard will be tending the bar. RMB 69 for a main course and a drink. Cocktails will cost RMB 25 all night.

Photos: Josh Ong