Grape Press: Run for the Bordeaux

“Grape Press” is a regular magazine column in which we recommend wines to suit various occasions and price points.

What Price Bordeaux? is the title of Benjamin Lewin’s searching account of the history of wine pricing from France’s most famous and largest appellation. With high-end Chinese consumers taking less interest in Château Lafite over the last year and with many of the Grand Cru Classé properties releasing their 2011 wines En Primeur at ridiculously high prices (given the quality), the Chinese relationship with Bordeaux is changing.

Since I began writing this column in 2007, I’ve rarely recommended Bordeaux – certainly red Bordeaux. Why not? Even though it is a massive part of the imported wine market, there is often not much value-formoney to be found, either from the famous classified properties or from its regular AC wines, which account for most of Bordeaux.

However, this month’s selections all feature Bordelais wines that are relatively well-priced for what they are.

ONE TO QUAFF
2008 Ginestet “Mascaron” Bordeaux Blanc
(ASC, RMB 198)
Available at LAN Club, Duck de Chine (1949 Jinbao Jie)
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, this is well-made. Medium green-gold, the nose offers pleasant toasty oak with lemon citrus and nutty, developed aromas. Medium-bodied with attractive fruit, lifting medium acidity, well-balanced and with quite good length.

ONE TO DRINK
2007 Château Coutet St. Emilion Grand Cru
(China Wines & Spirits, RMB 255)
Available at Scarlett, Chez Julien
As a category, “St. Emilion Grand Cru” is something to be wary of; these are not the Grand Cru Classé wines of St. Emilion and only need to be slightly higher in alcohol than regular St. Emilion. But this one is a good example. Medium ruby, the nose has aromatic oak with delicate red plum fruit and herbaceous, oaky notes. Medium-bodied with pleasant fruit, medium-high acidity and good length.

ONE TO SAVOR
2010 Mouton Cadet Reserve Sauternes
(Everwines, RMB 435)
Available at Wish, Mosto
This is a reliable bottling of Sauternes which we show to our students. Deep gold, the nose offers honey, candied lemon and peach with distinct botrytis aromas. Fullbodied, medium sweet with enough acidity to prevent cloying, pleasant candied fruits and good length.

Edward Ragg is co-founder, with Fongyee Walker, of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting, China’s leading independent wine consultancy and education service (www.longfengwines.com). They write for the world’s wine magazines and several publications in China.

Click here to see the September issue of the Beijinger in full.