Grape Press: Cinematic Sips

“Grape Press” is a regular magazine column in which we recommend wines to suit various occasions and price points.

On the big screen, wine can be curiously influential. Some believe that the popularity of Château Lafite in mainland China can be traced to Hong Kong movies of the 1980s and thereafter. And James Bond fans may not mind that their hero has switched from Dom Pérignon to Bollinger or that, in the more recent Bond franchise, Château Angélus now has pride of place, but the wineries benefit.

Then there are films that engage wine directly, such as the black comedy Sideways, which boosted Pinot Noir sales in the United States, or the documentary Mondovino, which portrayed a one-sided picture of the wine world, where apparently only the small producer can create an honest bottle of the stuff.

Evoking the pleasures of wine on screen is not easy, but this month’s selections are all admirable partners to a movie night in.

ONE TO QUAFF
2009 Folie à Deux Menage à Trois White, California
(Mercuris, RMB 198)
Available at Let’s Seafood, Gori
As its name suggests, this is an intriguing assemblage: from Chardonnay, Muscat and Chenin Blanc. Medium gold, the nose has white peach and attractive floral notes followed up by a medium-bodied palate with a zesty zing of medium acidity. Very drinkable!

ONE TO DRINK
2009 Clos de los Siete, Mendoza, Argentina (RMB 350)
(Jebsen, RMB 350)
Available at Park Hyatt, 1949–The Hidden City
One of the sexiest, most luscious red blends out there. Dark purple with an attractive nose of black cherry, prune and vanilla oak aromas. Palate is full-bodied with bags of fruit, juicy high tannins, a refreshing line of medium acidity and good length. Michel Rolland, the supposed “villain” of Mondovino, is consultant to this wine.

ONE TO SIP
NV Broadbent 10 Year Old Madeira, Portugal (RMB 575)
(Ruby Red, RMB 575)
Available at Veloce, The Loop
Perfect for repeat sipping over countless films, this dark-brown fortified has caramel, nutty and dried fig aromas. Lush, sweet, fullbodied with lifting high acidity and great length.

Edward Ragg is co-founder, with Fongyee Walker, of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting, China’s leading independent wine consultancy and education service (www.longfengwines.com). They write for the world’s wine magazines and several publications in China.

Click here to see the October issue of the Beijinger in full.