That 70's Bird: Larry the Bird's Roast Chicken Flaps Into Taikoo Li

If it’s not clear from the cap-sporting chicken mascot on the front of the building, the concept behind Larry the Bird, the latest partnered restaurant from Migas that’s now in its soft opening in Sanlitun’s Taikoo Li, then it should be evident from whole poultry rotating in the open-faced oven just behind the counter.

The menu meets the needs of quick to-go lunchers with chicken burgers (fried, spicy, crispy, or with pork belly) but the main draw is the whole (or half) roast chicken – and the damn fine sauce options. Fans of American sports will be able to connect the dots here between the restaurant’s name and basketball player Larry Bird, who famously promoted McDonald’s chicken.

In congruence with Bird’s career as a player, the joint has adopted an aura reflective 1970’s-80’s fast-food diners, which is quite unique among eateries in the area.

But rest assured the birds served here are well above and beyond the quality of that aforementioned mega-chain. The oven allows the chefs to spice the chickens while on the rotisserie and manages to broil the skin to crispy perfection while leaving the meat in a state of tender tear-ability. Indeed, diners tear the chicken themselves with the help of the provided rubber gloves.

For the dippers, we tried the chipotle sauce, thick and dark-colored, as well as the chimichurri sauce, which shares both color and consistency with pesto, but with a near curry-like taste. Both effectively added a pounding of flavor to an already fragrant bird, but there a number of other sauces to choose from, including kimchi mayo, Sichuan mayo, and “Larry’s Cheese Sauce.”

If this is the kind of meal you’d like to sit down for, you’ll want to enter through the left-hand doors, as the restaurant’s unique set-up separates it into two rooms – one for to-go and one for table service, with an outdoor terrace in between. Diners-in may also consider one of the (naturally) chicken-based appetizers. We can speak first hand in favor of the chicken cannelloni, a creamy dish that’s just the right size to share for two. A couple of other tempting menu items to try would be the cheese-stuffed banana peppers and the chicken mac & cheese.

Even from its first day joining the Taikoo Li flock, it’s clear that, much like its parent restaurant, Larry the Bird will be as much a party spot as a hotspot for hungry Sanlituners. Don’t be surprised to hear 90’s hip hop or 70’s funk bumping as you pass by – and as a for party liquids, a number of Belgian beers are available on draught, and there’s even an on-tap mojito that promises to refresh on a hot summer afternoon on the patio.

In any case, the patios on the west side of Taikoo Li now have a new neighbor, and it’s only a matter of time before the masses hear the call of the cock-a-doodle-doo-doo and come a-running for some tasty chicken.

Larry the Bird
Sanlitun Taikooli West side
三里屯太古里西边

READ: Eat These Cooling Beijing Summer Foods to Help Lower Your Body Temperature

Images: Courtesy of Larry the Bird, Joey Knotts