Long-Running Indian Eatery Taj Pavilion Reopens With Winter-Beating Curries in the Heart of CBD 

If you're already growing tired of hotpot but can't find a better sizzling and spicy grub alternative to beat Beijing's sub-zero temperatures, then look no further than one of the city's oldest Indian eateries, Taj Pavilion. Now right in the heart of the CBD, the Indian restaurant returns after nearly six months off to relocate from China Overseas Plaza to their new digs at Guanghua Soho and have revamped their menu with a new range of lip-smacking and mouthwatering dishes to help subdue outside's chilling winds and freezing cold.

Shutting shop last April, Guomao's curry and kebab scene lost a stalwart and Indian food took a back seat in the area. However, their recent relaunch in the Guanghua Road Soho had us excited to be back. Upon entering, we were once again greeted by its ever-affable owner, Mehernosh Pastakia.

Squeezing into the middle of the CBD’s vertical and cloud-kissing skyline, the new Taj, as it’s known by its dedicated clientele, was chosen “in keeping with the golden rule of setting up business premises in mind and that is – location, location, location!” Pastakia explains. Having seen customer numbers increase over its almost two-decade-old existence, the Indian fine dining restaurant chain has become a must-visit refueling stopover for a number of Indian dignitaries, corporate head-honchos, and tourists. It also provides a taste of India to a large number of foodies from the expat Indian communities in Beijing and China. “It was a bit difficult to access our earlier branch at the nearby China Overseas Plaza,” Pastakia adds.

As we made our way to the second floor of the cozy two-story eatery, I was instantly welcomed by notes of aromatic masala tea, a must-try for lovers of milk tea, except this version is laced with Indian spices. The tea was served with the quintessential Indian snack of samosas (RMB 28), consisting of vegetables and spices wrapped in pastry before being fried. As I was munching the piping-hot samosas, Pastakia informed me that the first Taj Pavilion opened in 1998 after facing a slew of initial challenges.

“At that time, there were only a handful of foreigners in Beijing, and there weren’t many Chinese who could speak English or would try foreign food,” says the mild-mannered propietor. So, he, along with his better half Zheng Xiaowen, overcame those obstacles and moved ahead to fulfill their dream. Since then there has been no looking back and the two currently oversee a chain of three restaurants in Beijing.

Pastakia, who is himself Parsi, then decided to treat us to a few main dish from his own community. First up: chicken farcha (RMB 52), which is not all that different from Southern American crispy fried chicken. We made it disappeare in no time. Then came the restaurant's signature mutton saliboti (RMB 68) curry, which is notable for its tomatoey tang and a liberal helping of onions, jaggery, and vinegar, served with a mound of sali (potato sticks) and chapattis (Indian bread).

However, my all-time favorite is Taj's classic chicken biriyani (RMB 62), comprising of a mouthwatering mix of spices, ranging from ghee (clarified butter) to nutmeg and cloves, cinnamon, mint leaves, ginger, onions, garlic, a pinch of saffron, and served with a bowl of raita (yogurt). This and this alone is the winning formula to keep you warm through winter.

Finally, as no proper Indian meal is complete without a dessert, we tucked into a bowl of hot and juicy gulabjamun (RMB 25), spongy and milky spheres soaked in a sweet rose-scented syrup. it was the perfect way to extinguish the fire of spices still tingling from the mains.

Before we parted ways, Pastakia informed us that the kitchen has completely overhauled and the menu and now offers a tempting range of vegetable, fish, chicken and mutton kebabs and platters as part of their barbecue promotion throughout winter. Already stuffed, we decided to leave those until next time the call for curry beckons. We expect we won't have to wait long.

The Taj Pavilion
L123, 1/F, Guanghua Soho, 22 Guanghua Road,Chaoyang District (6505 5866)
朝阳区光华路22号光华SOHO一层西侧123室

Photos: Rituparna Ain