Xiamen: A Breezy Getaway to China’s Other Historical Harbor Down South

Fujian province’s city of Xiamen, formerly known as Amoy, has long been an important historical site for its role as a harbor for much of the last 800 years as well as a strategic stepping-off point to Taiwan. These days, it’s best known as a popular destination for Chinese tourists because of its mild climate, historic sights, beaches, and fresh seafood. For those same reasons, it is the perfect destination for a weekend away from the stresses and strains of Beijing. These are some of this ancient city’s highlights, divided by interests.

Art

Shapowei is an up-and-coming art quarter that feels like if 798 had a child with Wudaoying. Just like those favorite Beijing strolling spots, it’s been ruined in places by gentrification but that’s not to say that it’s completely lacking in some decent little shops and bars. One of the best is Fat Fat Beer Horse brewery, whose products you may have encountered at one of the capital’s blossoming beer festivals. Fat Fat’s beers are brewed on site, which means there’s plenty to choose from, and for after-hours (that is, when the bar closes) head to the “Leisure Bus” just around the corner.

Part bus, part outdoor bar, Leisure Bus is bathed in unconventional blue lighting and stacked with a decent selection of beers. On the night we visited, one of the regulars had brought along her pet snake, making for no shortage of entertainment.

Fat Fat Beer Horse
Mon-Fri 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight.Shapowei Art Zone, Daxue Lu, Siming District
 

Beach

The beach directly in front of Xiamen University may get crowded but makes for a fun atmosphere, with students sitting, chatting, and sipping on drinks from the convenience stores nearby. Dip your toes in the water or if you want to swim, visit during school hours in the week while the students are hitting the books. Alternatively, combine with a walk around Xiamen University’s campus, one of the oldest in China ...

Baicheng Beach
South of Xiamen University, Siming District
 

Culture

Xiamen University, known colloquially as Xia Da, was the first university in China to be founded by a member of the Chinese diaspora, and is ranked highly nationally. The university is a popular tourist site, and you’ll have to queue 20-30 minutes for free tickets. That said, the wait is worth it given that campus is beautiful to explore, especially for its picturesque architecture set against the green hills of Xiamen bay. The campus is open to tourists between midday and 2pm, and from 5.30pm to midnight.

Xiamen University
Daily midday-2pm, 5.30pm-midnight. 422 Siming Nanlu, Siming District
 

Nature

Hikers and nature lovers will want to visit Xiamen’s Nanputuo Temple (pictured below), located just south of Putuo, a holy Buddhist mountain. From the temple, hike for approximately one hour up the mountain for a spectacular view over Xiamen. On the other side, you’ll find Xiamen Botanical Gardens (RMB 40 for a ticket), home to a beautiful selection of flora and fauna that will extend your walk by at least another hour.

Nanputuo Temple
Daily 7am-6pm. 515 Siming Nanlu, Siming District

Xiamen Botanical Gardens
Daily 6.30am-8pm. 25 Huyuan, Siming District
 

Getting there and around

Xiamen is a three-hour flight from Beijing, or 11 hours by train (if you prefer). Xiamen Station is right in the center of where you’ll want to be – Siming District.

Once you’re there, get around using Mobikes, Ofo, or by taxi, which are also readily available and cheaper than in Beijing. A word of warning though: traffic was bad during our visit due to temporary roadworks, so bikes may be the best option to navigate the comparatively small city center.

And one last tip: If you want to go to the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site of Gulangyu Island, Xiamen’s main tourist draw, make sure you book your ferry tickets ahead of time as they can sell out even a day in advance. 

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Photos: Margaux Schreurs