Some of Beijing's Best Peranakan Cuisine Can Be Found in an Unlikely Alleyway Locale

A quiet hutong near Zhangzizhong Lu may not be the first place that springs to mind if you're on the hunt for great Malaysian cuisine, but that is indeed where restaurant-slash-cultural-exchange-center Mulu Hutong decided to settle in late 2013. A recent revisit to this hidden gem shows that their cooking has held up, even improved, since then.

On our first visit to Mulu five years ago, we described it as feeling like "the courtyard home of your classiest friend" and that judgment still rings true today. The main dining area is dominated by a huge Qing dynasty wooden table (coasters all around, please), along with various other antique collectibles and a huge calligraphic rendering of the Chinese characters for "Mulu" drawn by the owner’s grandfather. Upstairs, a two-level terrace offers views over the surrounding hutong rooftops and makes for the perfect place for a postprandial drink or two.

Mulu previously served a mix of Western, Chinese, and Malay dishes, but they have recently transitioned to a more traditional Malay style of cooking, inspired by the success of their sister Southeast Asian restaurant, Mulu WFC in Wangfujing. Today, diners can expect to be served a set menu of modern Peranakan cuisine (also known as Nyonya cuisine), the culinary result of Chinese migrants settling in Penang, Malacca, Singapore, and Indonesia throughout the 15th and 17th centuries and the blending of Chinese cooking styles with the spices and techniques of Malay and Indonesia cuisine. Peranakan food is therefore notable for its diverse influences, complex use of herbs and spices, and, above all, the time that goes into many of the dishes.

Take, for example, the wagyu beef short rib from the most recent set menu, which, with its tender meat and clinging Rendang sauce, smacks of long cooking over low heat. Other dishes are more modern in style and inspiration, cleverly blending traditional flavors with au courant presentation. A dish described as "organic egg with minced veal" is, for all intents and purposes, a scotch egg and a very good one at that, thanks to the addition of fresh herbs to the veal mince. 

Mulu Hutong is open to the public but you will need to make a booking at least a couple of days, but ideally a week, in advance. The menu mentioned above is priced at RMB 588 per person for seven courses including wine. Of course, this being a semi-private dining space, you can very much tailor the menu to your own requirements. Otherwise, expect the set menu to change every month or so. 

Mulu Hutong
7 Xinsi Hutong, Dongsi Shiertiao, Dongcheng District (6400 3627)
东城区东四十二条辛寺胡同7号

Want more Peranakan in the capital?
Try the photogenic blue rice and modern flourishes at Tease by CreatureS.

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Photos: Robynne Tindall, courtesy of Mulu