Legend Reborn: Romance Is Alive at CourtYard
Definite articles, like CDs and fusion cooking, are so last century. That’s why when a restaurant drops a “the,” it’s a sure bet they’re aspiring for newness. “The” CourtYard used to be the place to be seen. But movie stars move on.
More importantly, owner Handel Lee (the impresario behind the Legation Quarter) has brought in big-name chef Dan Segall. The Bostonian heads a consultancy firm that fixes up beleaguered restaurants, then rides off into the sunset. Think the A-Team, but with whisks.
Several signatures catch the eye on Segall’s new “modern European” menu. Lobster and organic chicken raviolo (RMB 120), served with a dollop of smoked trout and potato salad, is a terrific dish, classy and inventive. Roquefort cheese and bloody beef is ever a divine pairing, so the butter-basted “Rangers Valley” tenderloin with asparagus Roquefort gratin (RMB 320), though less dazzling, was devoured with fervor. A tremendous fillet of plump yellowtail paired with a smoky eggplant puree (RMB 160) drew smiles all round, and we had only kind words for the saddle of lamb stuffed with dried apricots.
Chef Dan may well have hit the trail by the time you read this. One could quibble that his menu errs on the safe side, with just a handful of more complex dishes to worry the in-house chefs with. Then again, simplicity plus great ingredients (including house-made pickles, cheese and sorbets) are a winning mix.
And I haven’t even got round to mentioning CourtYard’s enchanting perch beside the Forbidden City. Oops, there you go.
Standout dishes: Lobster & organic chicken raviolo, apricot-stuffed saddle of lamb with green peas and pearl barley
Also try: Domus, Capital M
CourtYard
Daily 6-9.30pm. 95 Donghuamen Dajie (north of Donghuamen parking lot at the Forbidden City), Dongcheng District (6526 8883)
四合院, 东城区东华门大街95号 (故宫东华门停车场北面)
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