Great Food in a Picturesque Setting: Dianke Dianlai Yunnan restaurant

Yunnan restaurants in picturesque courtyards are certainly nothing new, but our faith in Beijing’s dining clichés has been renewed. Dianke Dianlai is a fantastic restaurant.

The RMB 98 set menu began with a dozen shrimp in a cold tomato broth of rosemary, thyme and lemon wedges. Next, the grilled fish revealed extraordinary complexity with its packed stuffing of chillies and spices. Rosemary returned again in Jingpo-minority roasted chicken (Jingpo kaoji), though we were mystified by the other herbs (a house secret) that infused the tender meat and crisp skin. The classic mint salad was intriguingly paired with fermented beans and the new spring leaves of zhe’ergen, which lack the pungent aroma for which its roots are famous. Even more surprising was a bowl of multicolored glutinous rice – dyed naturally by spring mountain flowers – which we had only previously encountered in Buyi minority country. A slice of papaya jelly served on top of a rose petal was the only stylish excess, but after such a feast, we hardly noticed.

The innovative set menus (RMB 98 or RMB 198 per person) also include a pot of Yunnan pu’er tea (normally RMB 40), served gongfu cha-style by some of the most cheerful waitresses we’ve ever met. It was tempting to linger on, sipping tea and using the free Wi-Fi, but they were busy readying the courtyard for summer, with a small pond and outdoor seating in the works.

We look forward to returning – dianke dianlai, after all, approximates a Yunnan phrase that means “to come and go.”

Standout dishes: Spice-stuffed barbecued fish skewered on bamboo (kao luofei yu), shrimp in a sour and spicy broth (suantang xia)

If you liked this restaurant, you should also try: Dali Courtyard, Yunteng Shifu

Daily 10am-10pm. 8 Dafangjia Hutong (off Chaoyangmen Nanxiaojie), Dongcheng District (6512 0930) 东城区大方家胡同8号(朝阳门地铁站南)

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