Back For More: Revisiting Brasserie Flo

“Back for More” is a regular magazine column in the Beijinger in which we revisit old favorites.

The giant red neon “Flo” is straight out of the Moulin Rouge, with white columns and the sprawling colonial terrace only adding to the kitsch. While I do enjoy my share of over-the-top decor, I came to Flo because its recent 11th anniversary made me curious about one of Beijing’s oldest French restaurants. Once inside, my hopes shot up. The old-fashioned leather chairs, a hushed atmosphere and walls lined with awards were all good omens.

Were those awards justified? The goose liver terrine was smoothly exquisite, rich and mellow, spiked liberally with liquor. The onion soup (RMB 48) was ripe with red wine and accented with a sharp Emmenthal. Likewise, the black pepper sauce for the oh-so-tender tenderloin was generous in wine and butter. Tart and superb, the steak tartare was well-doused with Worchester and Tabasco. All signs pointed to a fantastic bistro.

But a central joy of a brasserie (the French equivalent of a pub) are the potatoes. Half of the magic of steak tartare lies in scooping up raw meat with crisp fries. Flo’s fries tasted of the supermarket freezer section,with some so dry I wondered just how long ago they were flash-frozen.The steak came with a slightly undercooked block of potato that pleaded – no, begged – for salt.

Although the profiteroles were disappointingly chewy, the ile flotant (“floating island”) was a dreamy concoction of a luscious caramel and cream cold soup, topped with clouds of slippery meringue (RMB 49).

The verdict? Flo is a haven from the sleek European restaurants that now dominate the scene, maintaining old-school charm with unobtrusively elegant service. The mains are classic and thoroughly enjoyable. Now, if only they could figure out how to cook a potato.

Brasserie Flo 北京福楼餐厅
Daily 11am-3pm, 5.30-11pm. 2/F, Rainbow Plaza, 16 Dongsanhuan Beilu (south of the Great Wall Sheraton), Chaoyang District (6595 5135)
朝阳区东三环北路16号隆博广场2层

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