That’s How We Roll: Vibrant Vietnamese at Susu

Down a deserted alley, just at the point that doubt starts to creep, Susu welcomes you into her twinkling, ever-so-modish folds. A courtyard oasis whose designer dazzle bears the stamp of Apothecary and Modo, it’s a supremely assuring first impression.

A duo of Vietnamese chefs is hell-bent on weaning us off the stir-fry with a green arsenal of exotic, herby aromatics, from dokudami (aka “fish mint”) to Asian basil. Nem rolls (RMB 34-48), fresh or fried, are impeccably assembled, the “classic” a taut bundle of shrimp, pork, pineapple and greens with a light peanut sauce. Order it DIY (RMB 88-98) and roll your own.

Salads, too, are a splendid interplay of color, texture and tang. The Susu Shrimp (RMB 48) makes use of the eponymous susu (chayote) squash with plump, shelled shrimp and a splash of fish sauce. The Five Color Salad (RMB 38) adds chewiness to its crunchy veggies with fine shavings of pig’s ear.

The dish on everyone’s lips is the signature La Vong fish (RMB 108). I ate it in Hanoi five years ago, and the only miss here – a biggie, admittedly – is the lack of dill. Too expensive in Beijing, according to the owner. Still, the sautéed fish fillets, turmeric yellow, are delicious.

Sour fish soup (RMB 68), a little light on both fish and sourness, failed to live up to its name. And the banh mi sandwich (RMB 58 lunch set), despite the excellent homemade pâté, proved a bit of a jaw workout, bread-wise. These quibbles, along with the un-ordered blossoms of a Scholar Tree falling pitter-patter into our food, are minor. Right now, Susu is the most exciting dining experience in town.

Susu
Tue-Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang (north of the National Art Museum), Dongcheng District (8400 2699)
东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号

Standout dishes: Grilled fish roll, classic fried rolls
Also try: Va Va Voom, Muse

Photos: Susu