Grape Press: Beyond Champagne

Last month we looked at the heavily marketed – and variable in quality – world of Champagne. This time we take a peek at the broader sphere of sparkling wines.

Cooler climates typically suit sparkling wine production, helping to retain acidity which, when combined with carbon dioxide, keeps wines refreshing and palate-cleansing. Beyond the Champagne region itself, most other areas of French produce “Crémant,” a sparkling wine made using similar methods to Champagne, but with grapes local to the region in question. One of this month’s choices is a “Crémant de Bourgogne” (from Burgundy).

Australia, New Zealand, Chile and the US are other notable sparkling wine producers, often using Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (two important Champagne grapes) to make their wines. Southern England is also a small but fine source, and Germany offers large amounts of usually cheap Sekt.

Italy has its own “Champagne-styled” Franciacorta – aged by law for longer than most Champagne – but also offers its distinctive Prosecco, and the floral, sweeter wines of Asti and Moscato d’Asti.

But don’t forget sparkling reds! Australian sparkling Shiraz is brilliant on a hot day and Lambrusco, despite its cheap image, can be good too.

ONE TO QUAFF
NV Bisol “Jeio” Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Veneto, Italy
RMB 247 (EMW)
Available at Mosto, Alameda
Light green in color, this Prosecco has lovely pear fruit, attractive medium acidity, a strong mousse and good length. Bisol is one of the most reliable producers.

ONE TO DRINK
NV Louis Bouillot “Perle Vigne” Grand Reserve, Burgundy, France
RMB 260 (Mercuris)
Available at Cheese & Wine
This Crémant de Bourgogne makes a very viable Champagne substitute without breaking the bank. Medium gold in color, the nose has pleasant lemon citrus, hints of red fruit and biscuit aromas, lifting medium-high acidity, a persistent mousse and good length.

ONE TO SAVOR
2004 Kreglinger Vintage Brut, Tasmania, Australia
RMB 534 (Torres China)
Available at Migas
Cool-climate Tasmania provides wonderful sparkling wines. Light to medium-gold with lovely lemon citrus, floral and yeasty aromas, the palate has refreshing high acidity, a delicate mousse and great length.

Edward Ragg is co-founder, with Fongyee Walker, of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting, China’s leading independent wine consultancy and education service (www.longfengwines.com). They write for the world’s wine magazines and several publications in China.

Photos: Courtesy of the suppliers