The Taste Maker: The Westin Beijing Chaoyang’s Culinary Director, Massimilliano “Max” Milleri

This post is sponsored by The Westin Beijing Chaoyang.
 

Massimilliano “Max” Milleri is not only a seasoned chef, but also a globe-trotting purveyor of fine international cuisine. After traversing seven nations and earning a host of accolades, including two Michelin stars, in his 30-year career, the garrulous and versatile native of Trieste, Italy began working at the Westin Beijing Chaoyang earlier this year where he oversees Grange steakhouse, Mai Japanese restaurant and the perennially popular Bubbalicious buffet at Seasonal Tastes.

Despite his impressive credentials, Chef Milleri can still recall a time when he was nothing more than a kitchen newbie, dreading the very thing that would lead to all his success: hungry patrons.

“At the very beginning of your career, I was afraid of guests coming,” Milleri recalls of his early disposition at a small eatery in Munich during his first restaurant gig outside of Italy’s borders. “I thought to myself: ‘Oh my gosh, they’re coming! I need to be ready … I need to do what they’re asking.’ You cannot fail. That was the very beginning. Then slowly, slowly, everything changed. I became passionate, and [actually] wanted the guests to come.” 

We recently sat down with Chef Milleri to find out more about how he grew from an overwhelmed novice to seasoned professional, and how his time in the military, his extensive travels across continents and the surprising cultural connections he’s made have helped shape who he is today. 
 

What prompted you to become a chef in the first place?
In the summer of 1981 I went to help my friend, who owned a restaurant. We knew each other from football. His restaurant was in a campground. I wanted to help him, and went there to do simple things like work on the deep frier. I was especially good at using the coffee machine.
 

What did you like about the business right away? 
I didn’t like to go to school much. So I thought ‘Okay, maybe this is the job for me.’ I ended up working as a simple cook in Italy for the next six years, even during my two years of militarily service.
 

You cooked in the army?
Yes … I was released with the rank of sergeant. And then I left Trieste, my hometown, and never looked back. In Italy military service was compulsory at the time – I would not have gone if I didn’t have to, because I already had a job at my friend’s campground. At that time the military salary was barely enough to let you buy a carton of cigarettes! 
 

Did you learn how to become a better cook in the army?
No. But it gives you a very different perspective. Not straight away, but later on in your career … in terms of life. It makes you realize not everything is as simple as it looks. It was compulsory, not voluntary like now, so you weren’t treated well. The older guys were very unfriendly to us.

After I was released I went to work in Munich, and that is when everything started to come together. It was an Italian restaurant in Germany. That’s when I realized I was afraid of the customers, afraid of disappointing them, and I learned how to work to satisfy them. 
 

You've been awarded Michelin Stars twice in your career - how did that come about?
You only get that because people think you deserve it. You don’t seek it, it just comes. I was working at the Dorchester Hotel’s restaurant [La Terrazza dell'Eden] in Rome in 1994. We opened in March and got the Michelin star in November. I also was awarded one when working at a restaurant called San Clemente in Padua, Italy in from 1995 to 1996. It has since been closed.

The restaurant [in Rome] had the most beautiful view. You could see the Seven Hills and St. Peter’s Basilica, from the windows. It was just fantastic – right on top of the Spanish steps! We made simple dishes — risottos, hand-made pasta, very delicious but straightforward food. That was the appeal … it was nothing fancy or fake, but simple and delicious. 
 

What brought you to Asia?
The chef at the Marina Mandarin Hotel in Singapore wanted to come home to Italy. I wanted to go overseas, I really wanted to move and see something new. So we swapped. It was amazing to move there — the hotel is right on the Marina Bay in Singapore. But I only spoke Italian at the time, so I had to learn English there very quickly. I loved it – it was such an exciting place! Since then I’ve worked in even more interesting places — the Maldives, Dubai, Croatia. But I enjoyed Tokyo most of all. 
 

Why did Tokyo charm you so much?
I learned a lot there, many things that I still use today. I worked with an Indian chef in Tokyo, for instance. He did authentic South Indian food, and I enjoyed it so much that I decided to have a tandoori oven installed at this hotel in Beijing after I got here. Now I can make naan bread and all kinds of authentic Indian dishes, just like my dear friend did. 

There was so much that I learned in Tokyo, because it was a very demanding job. I was in charge of running the culinary operations of the Intercontinental Hotel, including all of its 13 restaurants and lounges, plus 36 banquet rooms and catering. The Intercontinental Tokyo has the biggest F&B operation of any IHG (InterContinental Hotels Group) worldwide. 
 

What unique skills and features have all of these prior experiences helped you bring to Beijing?
I’ve worked hard here to bring stronger visual and interactive elements to the restaurants. So soon, when you come to Grange for oysters, I’m planning to have decor with sand and beach motifs that help transport customers to the seaside. Having all three restaurants open for the brunch, and having the chefs prepare things fresh for you at the buffet, is also very important. People want to see it being readied, they want that interaction – otherwise it’s the same as any other buffet. I want people to be able to walk far, try many foods and see many different things. It shouldn't just be a meal, it should be a journey. 
 

Photos: Uni You, courtesy of the Westin Beijing Chaoyang