Good point about operational capabilities vs. ambition. Yes, it's looking like that gap is closing. I'm also curious to see how their business develops in smaller cities, like Yiyang as you mentioned.
Panda Brew Finally Looks Set to Shake its Tired Reputation With New CBD Location
If you’re planning on stopping by the CBD's World City to visit Fat Boys burger bar or one of the other quality, criminally overlooked restaurants on that street any time soon, then you’re in for a big surprise. A recent change in management has not only led to Fat Boys' demise but an almost complete turnover, with the aim of drawing more foot traffic onto the sleepy strip.
One of the new additions to the strip is the swanky Panda Brewery taproom and restaurant. Beijing is no stranger to Panda Breweries, but we're pleased to say that despite its disappointing predecessors, this new location seems to be a step up for the brand.
Where Panda’s long-running Beixinqiao brewery left us frustrated with bland and sometimes downright flat pints, and mediocre bar food, this new location has given us hope that the Chinese craft beer brand has it in it to shake off its tired reputation.
While it still doesn’t stack up to foreign-owned competitors like Slow Boat or Great Leap, the beers we tried from the 15 options on tap were much improved, palate-tingling, and rightfully buzz-inducing.
The Aviator Single Hop Ale, in particular, is good value at RMB 35 and while it won't win any awards, its fetching bitter flavor and crisp finish should keep the white-collar CBD after-work pint set happy. Another noteworthy option is the bitter Eyes Wide Shut Coffee stout (which at RMB 55 is about RMB 10 more expensive than it should be) and the lighter and more complex alternative Black Tea Blonde Ale, which is more reasonably priced at RMB 38 and boasts a dynamic sweet-tart contrast.
They also have quite a bit of grub on offer, from RMB 46 tortillas and RMB 42 submarine sandwiches to the RMB 168 ribeye steak, an RMB 198 barbecue platter, and a hefty RMB 68 beef burger that looks worth making a return visit for. It’s certainly several steps up from the lackluster food that left us less than impressed at Panda's Beixinqiao location a while back.
This new location's decor is also an improvement over the generic “craft beer industrial motif” of their older Dongcheng branch. An expansive, gleaming bar sits opposite the entry, while vintage tables and chairs give the restaurant a nice classic ambiance.
While visiting the new location, owner Pan Dinghao told us that the Panda brand now has a head-spinning 23 locations around China, most of them in underserved second-tier cities, and is partnered up with burgeoning F&B dynamo Zax Wu, who handles the spirits and cocktails.
Read our review of Zax Wu's latest venture, Chunli Chifan, here.
Together, these elements have us rethinking Panda Brew’s standing in Beijing’s craft beer scene. While it still has a lot of ground to make up when compared to foreign-owned competitors, Panda has bounded to the head of the Chinese-owned pack with its decent brews, improved grub, and ambitious nationwide expansion.
Panda Brewery (The Place)
Daily, 10am-1am. F/1, Zhongjun World City East, 6 Jinhui Road (next to The Place), Chaoyang District (6592 2607)
熊猫精酿啤酒厨房(中骏世界城店)：朝阳区金汇路6号世界城东区1层
Photos: Dianping
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Kyle Mullin
Submitted by Guest on Fri, 04/26/2019 - 06:45 Permalink
Re: Panda Brew Finally Looks Set to Shake its Tired...
I visited the Dongcheng location in November last year and noticed a major improvement in the beer quality since my first visit a couple of years ago. Perhaps this reflects a change in focus from rapid expansion to quality control. I've had their beer at the Yiyang, Hunan, brewery, which was good. Of course, there is a lot of scope for poor handling between there and the glass in front of the customer that can ruin a good beer. Or it may even simply be the challenge of maintaining freshness when sales of certain styles are low in less developed markets. Hopefully, the improvement being seen in Beijing is a sign of their operational capabilities catching up with their ambition.
Great Hop Forward
Submitted by Guest on Tue, 04/23/2019 - 02:23 Permalink
Re: Panda Brew Finally Looks Set to Shake its Tired...
I visited the Dongcheng location in November last year and noticed a major improvement in the beer quality since my first visit a couple of years ago. Perhaps this reflects a change in focus from rapid expansion to quality control. I've had their beer at the Yiyang, Hunan, brewery, which was good. Of course, there is a lot of scope for poor handling between there and the glass in front of the customer that can ruin a good beer. Or it may even simply be the challenge of maintaining freshness when sales of certain styles are low in less developed markets. Hopefully, the improvement being seen in Beijing is a sign of their operational capabilities catching up with their ambition.
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