Pinot Doubt: What’s All the Fuss About?

“Grape Press” is a regular magazine column in which we recommend wines to suit various occasions and price points.

Until 2004, Pinot Noir was cherished mostly by “Pinotphiles.” Then the black comedy Sideways came out and with the virtues of Pinot Noir extolled on the big screen, sales rose. Such was the demand that giant US winery Gallo was even duped into buying a blended Languedoc red purporting to be 100 percent Pinot Noir.

In truth, Pinot Noir is hard to produce cheaply. This fickle grape is difficult to grow and make into wine. Burgundy is its traditional home, but Pinots from New Zealand, Australia, the US (especially from Oregon, but also California) and Chile are increasingly in demand.

Don’t be fooled by the relatively light color. Pinot Noir may lose color quickly in bottle, but when wellmade, is packed with flavor. All of this month's selections show why Pinot is worth making a fuss over.

ONE TO QUAFF
2009 Stonier Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia
(ASC, RMB 309)
Available at Mosto, Capital M
One of Australia’s top producers. Medium ruby in color, the nose offers lovely red cherry fruit with herbal aromas and delicate oak. The palate is dry and medium-bodied, with attractive red fruits, refreshing high acidity, balanced alcohol, medium chewy tannins and impressive length.

ONE TO DRINK
2010 Akarua Cadence Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand
(Ruby Red, RMB 365)
Available at 132 6965 2351, or email giacomo@rubyred.com.cn
Central Otago is New Zealand’s youngest wine region, but already famous for Pinot Noir. Medium ruby in color, the nose has perfumed red cherry and strawberry fruit with cinnamon-scented oak. Dry and medium-bodied, with lifting high acidity, chewy medium tannins, abundant fruit, balanced alcohol and very good length.

ONE TO SAVOR
2009 Savigny-Les-Beaune, Domaine Tollot-Beaut, Burgundy, France
(Globus, RMB 655)
Available at www.globus-wine.com
Medium ruby in color, the nose has perfumed red cherry fruit with delicate oak aromas. Dry, mediumbodied, well-integrated high acidity, silky medium tannins, balanced alcohol and very good length. An excellent vintage.

Edward Ragg is co-founder, with Fongyee Walker, of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting, China’s leading independent wine consultancy and education service (www.longfengwines.com). They write for the world’s wine magazines and several publications in China.

Click here to see the March issue of the Beijinger in full.